India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [170]
Casa Britona Far away from the crowds, this 17th-century Customs warehouse, located on the riverside in the fishing village of Charmanos, has been converted into a colonial-style boutique hotel by Goan architect-hero, Dean D’Cruz. With just 10 individually furnished rooms, you are ensured privacy, though sound travels fairly easily between rooms. Ask for a room on the first floor; these share a long veranda (with planter’s chairs) overlooking the pool. Almost 40 minutes from the shore, this may not be the ideal location for beach lovers (for that, book Casa Vagator, a thoroughly modern hotel by the same owner), but you are assured of peace, excellent service, and a multitude of chirping birds as backdrop while you unwind on the lounge deck by the pool or on the wooden boardwalk on the Mandovi River. On the boardwalk are tables where you can be served a lovely dinner by candlelight.
Charmanos, Badem, Salvador-do-Mundo, Bardez 403 101. 0832/241-0962 or 98-5055-7665. Fax 0832/241-3389. www.casaboutiquehotelsgoa.com. 10 units. Oct–Dec 15 and Apr–May Rs 4,000 deluxe double, Rs 6,000 luxury double; Dec 16–Dec 26 and Jan 6–Mar Rs 7,000 deluxe double, Rs 8,000 luxury double; June–Sept Rs 2,500 deluxe double, Rs 3,500 luxury double; Dec 27–Jan 5 Rs 12,000 deluxe double, Rs 13,000 luxury double; Rs 1,000 extra bed for child under 12. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; TV lounge; Internet by request (Rs 100/hr.); outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, hair dryer on request.
Casa Vagator A popular seaside miniresort, this is the best place to stay in Vagator—it’s got high design ambitions, direct beach access, and many fine views (especially from the beautiful penthouse suite). There’s nothing old-fashioned or heritage-themed here. The designers have gone for a bold contemporary look with sleek furniture, modern artworks, lamps and fittings, geometric fabric designs, and emphasis on creating flow through the different spaces. It’s a bit like having a slick city pad transported to the seaside, with interesting split-level rooms. Don’t think twice about booking a luxury room (larger spaces with good-size bathrooms and a little patio), or—better still—the superb penthouse suite with its breezy design, billowing curtains, multiple balconies and sea view from the shower. Towards the end of the day, plunk yourself on the hilltop deck overlooking Vagator Beach, toast the setting sun, and then ask for dinner to be served here. There’s a chichi indoor restaurant and bar with an attached fan-cooled open-air rooftop lounge, but it’s approached via a bland stairway area that makes you feel as if you’re suddenly in an apartment block.
House no. 594/4, Ozran, Vagator 403 507. 0832/652-9841. www.casaboutiquehotels.com. 12 units (some with shower only). Oct–Dec 15 and Apr–May Rs 6,000 deluxe double, Rs 7,000 luxury double, Rs 12,000 penthouse; Dec 16–Dec 26 and Jan 6–Mar Rs 7,000 deluxe double, Rs 8,000 luxury double, Rs 14,000 penthouse; June–Sept Rs 3,500 deluxe double, Rs 4,500 luxury double; Dec 27–Jan 5 Rs 16,000 deluxe double, Rs 17,000 luxury double, Rs 24,000 penthouse; Rs 1,000 extra bed for child under 12. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; bar; airport transfers (free during monsoon season; otherwise