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By Root 1919 0

Francis Church India’s earliest European church was originally constructed in wood, but this was replaced by a stone structure in 1546. It was also originally Roman Catholic, but under the British it became Anglican. Vasco da Gama was originally buried here when he died in Kochi on Christmas Eve, 1524; although his body was later moved to Lisbon, he is still memorialized here with a tombstone. Having passed through the hands of Franciscan friars, Dutch Protestants, and Anglicans, the presiding Church of South India continues to hold its services here every morning at 8am. As at Hindu temples and Muslim mosques, you are required to remove your shoes before entering; note the large pankahs—air-conditioning of old—still hanging over the pews, alongside the ancient ceiling fans.

Church St., Fort Kochi. Mon–Sat 9:30am–5pm.

Santa Cruz Basilica Pope Paul IV elevated this Portuguese church to a cathedral in 1558, but the original building was destroyed by the British in 1795. A new building was commissioned on the same site in 1887; it was declared a basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II. The basilica’s interiors are worth a look, especially the caryatids and exquisite stained glass.

Parade Rd. and K. B. Jacob Rd., near Bastion St., Fort Kochi. www.santacruzbasilica.org. Mon–Sat 9am–1pm and 3–5pm; Sun morning Mass only.

Black Gold

In Kerala, pepper is still sometimes referred to as karuthu ponnu, or “black gold,” and represents the backbone of the state’s international spice trade. Although the furious trade around spices has subsided considerably these days, the sorting houses, warehouses, and auction houses from which these valuable products find their way to the rest of the world still operate in much the same way they have for centuries (though given the current crises surrounding many of the traditional cash crops, there is a possibility that these side-street sights will not be around forever). Ask your guide or auto-rickshaw driver to take you to the ginger, black pepper, betel nut, and Ayurvedic medicine warehouses, reminiscent of Salman Rushdie’s The Moor’s Last Sigh; or head for the Kochi International Pepper Exchange on Jew Town Rd., Mattancherry ( 0484/222-4263), where until recently you could see Kerala’s black gold being furiously sold off to the highest bidder; sadly, this is now done electronically.

WHERE TO STAY

Fort Cochin is the area with the most historic charm and, compared with most Indian cities, a thoroughly laid-back vibe; best here are Le Colonial (utterly sumptuous interiors), Brunton Boatyard (waterfront location), Malabar House (chichi decor), and Old Harbour Hotel (best value and a wonderful atmosphere). In fact, this small enclave has the highest density of heritage accommodations in the country, so it’s hard to be disappointed here. Alternatively, if you demand a large, full-amenity hotel, opt for Willingdon Island, a 10-minute ferry ride away, and useful if you really want to be far away from the crowds—it’s hassle-free, although also a little empty on atmosphere.

If you don’t mind being far from the ambience of Fort Kochi and the harbor, there’s one relaxing out-of-town option worth considering Far more satisfying, however, and Kochi’s best opportunity for a beach experience, is the thoroughly laid-back Cherai Beach Resorts, some 30km (19 miles, or 40 min.) north of Kochi by road, or 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) from the Vypeen jetty. Savvy locals swear by the place, both as a chance for respite from the daily grind, and for its dining, so don’t turn your nose up just because it’s pretty basic. Ask for a heritage cottage with an open-air bathroom and patio on stilts overlooking the backwaters; although the newer rooms are sleeker, they lack the charm of these. Service and amenities may be obvious shortfalls, but the location at the edge of one of Kerala’s most scintillating (and relatively undiscovered) beaches will definitely make up for this; besides, the Ayurvedic rejuvenation massages are a treat, and the Keralite meals superb. And it’s a very good value at Rs 2,000 to Rs 5,500 ( 0484/248-1818