India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [210]
Casino Hotel, K.P.K. Menon Rd., Willingdon Island. 0484/266-8221 or -8421. Prices determined on the day and by weight. Mixed-seafood platter Rs 875. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7pm–midnight.
The Grand Pavilion INDIAN Okay, this may not be grand in the decor sense, but the Keralite and Indian food is delicious. And cheap. Which is why the place is always jam-packed with locals, and apparently has been since the ’60s when The Grand really was. Seafood is superb, with the signature karimeen pollichathu a definite must-have. If you’re not feeling that hungry, start with a plate of chemeen ularthiyathu (tiny prawns; ask that they not be too spicy), then follow with vegetable stew to be mopped up with the most delectable crisp-edged, soft-centered appams, and a plate of tender malai chicken, prepared in the tandoor, and served with mint sauce. All that food, and still the bill won’t top Rs 700 for two. A huge dining hall, filled to the brim with a loyal Indian clientele, and faultless food makes this 20-minute trip from Fort Kochi most definitely worth it. Make sure you book ahead.
M.G. Rd., Ernakulam. 0484/238-2061.www.grandhotelkerala.com. Main courses Rs 75–Rs 150. MC, V. Daily 12:30–4pm and 7–11:30pm.
The History & Terrace Grill KERALITE Two restaurants in one, more or less. The Terrace Grill (closed during the monsoon) has a great location overlooking busy Vypin boat jetty and the waterfront, and you can spend hours watching the passing parade while you feast on the superb signature seafood platters, filled with lobster, tiger prawns, scampi, squid (a little tough), and the catch of the day. Order a combination of “Mattancherry Spiced,” for some local flavor, and the more subtle lemon garlic butter. If the mosquitoes become bothersome, you may decide to move inside to The History where you can continue your meal to the accompaniment of live traditional classical music. The History feels like a large, elegant old-world dining hall, and has a much more varied menu (although you can’t order the Terrace Grill’s seafood platter here), with most of the recipes borrowed from the kitchens of Kochi families. New chef Ajeeth Janardmanan has spent much of 2009 visiting local Kochi families to unearth recipes that might otherwise end up lost to the world—if you’re at all interested, call him over and find out about his discoveries, and then let your taste buds decide.
Brunton Boatyard, 1/498 Fort Kochi. 0484/221-5461 through -5465. Main courses Rs 300–Rs 750; seafood platter Rs 1,200–1,400. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30pm.
Malabar Junction MEDITERRANEAN FUSION Along with Rice Boat (Taj Malabar’s pretty restaurant), this is Kochi’s answer to fine dining, though here it is alfresco, with guests seated in the small, lush courtyard area, watching (at night) a performance on the adjacent stage, the hotel and plants lit up to great effect. The atmosphere is very romantic, and if you can’t decide between Indian, Keralite, or European food, this is the place to be—there’s good variety, from the decadent Fisherman’s Dream (a plate of tiger prawns and red snapper) to the gourmet Malabar burger (prime beef with green pepper and chili sauce, served with okra and ginger-flavored tomato sorbet). Chef Biju also likes to show off his diverse talents with a couple of degustation menus; we’d opt for the six-course classical version, which includes a wonderful tiger prawn curry. Top the evening off with homemade ginger and pepper ice-cream, and then slink upstairs to Divine, the hot new wine lounge (see “Kochi After Dark,” below).
The Malabar House, 1/268–269 Parade Rd., Fort Kochi. 0484/221-6666. Main courses Rs 380–Rs 600, seafood platter Rs 1,500, degustation menu Rs 1,100–Rs 2,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.
1788 KERALITE/FUSION This breezy inside-outside restaurant at Old Harbour Hotel has the most intriguing menu in Kochi; the chef hails from Puducherry and clearly has a profound love of experimenting with local traditions, gearing them up for a fine dining