India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [212]
Niraamaya If you’re in any way curious about the healing power of Ayurveda, pay a visit to this small “Ayur vastra” boutique, which sells organic cotton products that are apparently infused with Ayurvedic medicines. They stock a lovely range of men’s shirts (from Rs 900) and women’s tops (from Rs 500)—hand woven and dyed in subtle shades and natural colors, they’re incredibly light and ideal for the hot Kerala climate. But the producers claim that the material on your body will also contribute to improved health. They also sell shawls, bed linen (apparently good for back pain), and yoga mats infused with similarly healthful potions. 1/622, Quiros St., Fort Kochi. 0484/326-3465 or 93-4901-3173. www.ayurvastraonline.com.
Traveller’s Paradise Under supervision of a French stylist, this community-oriented boutique carries a range of beautiful goods—from stylish linens and fabrics to handmade village crafts—with profits going to needy villages. Local women are employed, and the charitable organization based here arranges excursions (including backwater cruises and village tours) that benefit local communities and emphasize eco-friendly principles. K.L. Bernard Master Rd., Fort Kochi. 0484/221-8633. www.bloominthenaturalway.com.
KOCHI AFTER DARK
When the sun starts to sink, you should be watching it turn the harbor waters pale pink, either on a harbor cruise or, a cocktail in hand, from the Harbour View bar at The Gateway Hotel Marine Drive in Ernakulam (see above). Once the sun has set, head down M.G. Road to the Avenue Regent hotel and grab a sofa at Loungevity, a cool white minimalist lounge bar, and watch the city of Kochi network at the trendiest nightspot in the untouristy part of the city ( 0484/237 7977;www.avenuehotels.in). Alternatively, if you want to stay in Fort Kochi, a Kathakali or Kalaripayattu demonstration (see below) can easily fill the gap before a fine seafood dinner. Or simply spend the evening sampling glass after glass of India’s top vintages at The Malabar House’s tiny wine lounge, Divine (see “Where to Dine, above).
Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala’s Ancient Art Forms
A stay in Kochi affords you the opportunity to sample Kerala’s best-known classical art form—Kathakali, a performance style that delves into the world of demons, deities, soldiers, sages, and satyrs, taken from Indian epics such as the Mahabharata. Combining various theatrical and performance elements, it is said to have developed during the 16th century under the auspices of the Raja of Kottaraka, and today the best Kathakali school is in Kalamandalam, founded by a poet named Vallathol Narayan Menon in 1930. Here, students undergo a rigorous training program that lasts 6 years and includes massage techniques, extensive makeup training, and knowledge of the precise and subtle finger, body, and eye movements that constitute the language and grand emotions of Kathakali. There is also a host of instruments that may be mastered, as no performance is without musical accompaniment. So striking are the costumes, makeup, and jewelry associated with this form of dance-theater that the image of the elaborately adorned, heavily made-up, and almost masklike face of the Kathakali performer has become the state’s most recognizable icon. Performers employ exaggerated facial expressions (only enhanced by the makeup—bright paint applied thickly to the face) and a highly technical set of symbolic hand gestures (known as mudras). Vocalists and musicians help set the mood, utilizing the chengila (gong), elathalam (small cymbals), and chenda and maddalam (drums). Traditionally, Kathakali performances are held for entire