India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [223]
The Zuri Kumarakom Gleaming black lacquer-coated gods dot the fringes of a vast, overmanicured lawn; reception desks are miniature reproduction boats; golf carts zip guests between their rooms and the restaurants—it’s soon clear why staff at this, the former Radisson Plaza Resort, wears beige uniforms. It’s a resort that could be just about anywhere and, in fact, the design really pulls your attention away from the backwater action you came to witness. Sadly, unless you book one of the extremely pricey lake-view pool villas—which are indeed lovely, positioned as they are right on the shore of the lake, each very private and with its own generously sized plunge pool and a magical lake vista—you are paying a lot of money for a nice new room with a view of another nice new room. For some reason the architects saw fit to design the entire resort around a man-made “lagoon,” so most rooms circle what is really just a big pond. In its defense, The Zuri offers everything you’d expect from a five-star resort, with the exception of equitable service—some of the people working here are borderline hostile and, if you prefer the resort lifestyle, it’s hard to see why you wouldn’t rather opt for Kumarakom Lake Resort, where the architecture at least evokes some kind of local atmosphere.
Karottukayal, Kumarakom, Kottayam 686 563. 0481/252-7272. Fax 0481/252-7282. www.thezurihotels.com. reservations.kumarakom@thezurihotels.com. 72 units. Rs 17,000–Rs 18,000 Zuri double, Rs 18,500–Rs 22,000 deluxe double, Rs 23,000–Rs 30,000 cottage double, Rs 50,000–Rs 75,000 presidential pool villa. Rates include breakfast; tax extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants, lounge, 2 bars, cigar bar; airport transfers (Rs 3,500); amphitheater for cultural performances; bicycles; billiards; fishing; health club and spa; large outdoor pool w/Jacuzzi; room service; yoga and meditation. In room A/C, TV, butler (in pool villas), hair dryer, minibar.
Expensive
Coconut Lagoon If private alfresco showers and hammocks rather than room service and television are your idea of bliss, then this is your kind of lakeside idyll. Some of the reassembled wooden tharavads here date from the early 1700s, and each has been reassembled according to ancient carpentry rules known as thachu shashtra. The emphasis here is on providing an authentic Kerala feel and having as little impact as possible on the natural environment. Indeed, much of the resort’s rustic charm lies in its simplicity (this was the first place to even think about the impact of tourism on the environment, and they’ve taken huge strides to try and counter the negative effects). The best values are the “standard” heritage bungalows numbered 219 to 221, 223, and 225 to 228—these face the Kavanar River yet cost no more than those clustered around pathways. Not as fancy as Kumarakom, but with a wonderfully warm and laid-back atmosphere, great sunset cruises with live Indian musicians to serenade the setting sun, and a host of incredible body-curing Ayurvedic treatments at reasonable prices.
Kumarakom, Kottayam 686 563. 0481/252-5834 through -5836. Fax 0481/252-4495. www.cghearth.com. coconutlagoon@cghearth.com. Reservations: c/o CGH Earth, Casino Building, Willingdon