India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [227]
Near Pallathuruthy Bridge, Alappuzha-Changanassery. 94-4779-8108 or 98-4777-1229. www.ourland.in. bookourland@gmail.com. 6 units. Nov–Mar Rs 4,500–Rs 5,000 double; Apr–Oct Rs 4,300. Rates include all meals and activities. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bicycles; bird-watching; boating and backwater cruises; fishing; guided hikes. In room: A/C and fans.
Kerala’s Floating Supermarket
Don’t be alarmed if, while scanning the Backwaters, you suddenly set eyes upon a garish red-and-white checkered miniature ship cruising through the waterways. In fact, you might even want to find a way to get a look at what’s happening on board. It’s India’s first waterborne supermarket, known as the Floating Triveni, and was launched on June 7, 2009, as a way of bringing the convenience of everyday retail shopping to the island-bound villagers who live in Alappuzha district’s Kuttanad backwaters. Covering 53 locations and catering to over a million people, the floating minimall carries everything from toiletries to home appliances (which must be ordered in advance, of course) at below-market prices. It’s 16m (53 ft.) long with a staff of eight, and the state cooperative which owns it plans to get it recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records. Meanwhile, there are plans for two more island-hopping supermarkets in the Kochi and Kollam backwaters.
Mararikulam: Top Beachfront Options
The best beachfront options are found in an area known as Mararikulam, and provide an excellent alternative to being directly on the backwaters, while you always have access to them. Of the places we’ve reviewed, Marari Beach Resort offers the most by way of facilities, and comes with excellent, warm service—it’s also relatively large (although well spread out, so perhaps not the best choice if you’re looking to get away from it all. To do that, look no father than A Beach Symphony (also reviewed below), which is the absolutely fabulous reworking of a series of fishing cottages set back from the beach, and luxuriously remodeled for leisure-loving vacationers like yourself. Consider these, particularly if you like a vacation that moves at your own pace.
A Beach Symphony If the whole resort experience leaves you cold, rent one of these fishermen’s cottages located right on the beach—you all but wake up with the sand between you toes. You can prebook your most-desired cottage, but that hikes the price by Rs 1,500 per night, and frankly, they’re all gorgeous. Violin (an entirely new building—the others are renovated; three more are planned) has a private plunge pool in its own garden, and Como is closest to the beach. The design is fresh and appealing, a blend of traditional art and craft with a slick modern sensibility, and some of the best-looking bathrooms (all open air, with huge showers) in Kerala. No restaurants or soulless buffet spreads here: meals are served on your balcony—lovely light lunches (grilled fish, chicken, or fresh sardines, with salads and homemade dressings) and dinners prepared to order (there’s no menu as such, so you consult with the chef). Stationed here you really do feel as if you’ve been washed ashore on some exotic, luxurious beach idyll, but if you like to keep busy and explore, Belgian owner-managers Jan and Christel go out of their way to help; they’ll arrange anything from tuk-tuk trips to ayurvedic massages at the local hospital.
Marari Beach, Mararikulum, Alleppey. 97-4429-7123.www.abeachsymphony.com. 4 units, all with shower only. Nov–Mar Rs 10,000–Rs 12,500 double, Apr–Oct Rs 7,500 double. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: In-house dining; airport transfers (Rs 1,700–Rs 2,500); bicycles;