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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [230]

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spot since the early 20th century—no doubt because of its proximity to Trivandrum (a mere 10- to 20-min. drive south)—and as a result has become overcommercialized and saturated with tourist-hungry businesses. If you’re looking for Kerala’s most stunning, upmarket seaside options, many with more-or-less private beaches, you’ll have to travel farther south of Kovalam (see “Kovalam & Kerala’s Southernmost Coast,” later in this chapter).

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION As the state capital, Trivandrum has plenty of outlets for tourist information, most of which (if not more) can be accessed on the state’s comprehensive website, www.keralatourism.org. There are two tourist information counters at the airport; one caters to international arrivals ( 0471/250-2298) and the other to domestic flights ( 0471/250-1085; daily 10am–5pm, closed a flexible hour for lunch). There are also information counters at the Central Bus Station in Thampanoor ( 0471/232-7224) and at the Railway Station ( 0471/233-4470), both of which are open daily from 8am to 8pm. Kerala’s Department of Tourism operates a 24-hour toll-free information line ( 1600/425-4747). Also providing tourist information is the Department of Tourism’s Tourist Facilitation Centre (Park View, Museum Rd., opposite the museum complex; 0471/232-1132; daily 10am–5pm). For local tour information and bookings, go to the Kerala Tourism Development Corporation or KTDC, either at Hotel Chaithram, adjacent to Central Bus Station in Thampanoor ( 0471/233-0031; daily 6:30am–9:30pm), or at Hotel Mascot ( 0471/231-6736).

GETTING THERE & AWAY By Road As mentioned earlier, Kerala is ideal for exploration with a hired car and driver; roads are relatively good, the countryside is spectacular, and Trivandrum is connected by principal roads and highways with all parts of the country. For car/driver hire recommendations, see “Guided Tours,” below. Super Deluxe bus services are operated by the Kerala State Road Transport Corporation; long-distance buses operate from the Central Bus Station in Thampanoor ( 0471/232-3886), while shorter journeys start and finish at the City Bus Stand in East Fort ( 0471/246-3029). Private operators run so-called deluxe coaches to more distant towns and cities in South India, usually overnight, but remember that most night buses make regular pit stops, making sleep impossible. If you’re budgeting your time and money, however, by all means go by bus—just make sure you’ve booked a nonstop (Volvo) bus. Though the journey is long, it’s relatively comfortable and cheap (an overnight bus from Bangalore to Kochi for instance, takes 10 to 11 hours and costs less than Rs 1,000; buses are air-conditioned, have reclining seats, usually provide blankets, and stop only two or three times for toilet/food breaks. Before setting off, try to determine precisely where you need to get off; these buses usually stop at several points in the destination city, with the conductor screaming wildly in a language you don’t understand—try to make sure he lets you know specifically when it’s time for you to get off.

By Air Trivandrum is connected by air to Delhi, Mumbai, Kochi, Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Tiruchirapali. Trivandrum International Airport ( 0471/250-1424 for international flight information; www.trivandrumairport.com) is served by all the Indian airlines including Kingfisher, Jet Airways, Paramount, and Spice Jet (airlines rated the most reliable, with the best service standards). There are also international flights from various Asian cities, Middle Eastern hubs (including Dubai and Abu Dhabi, both convenient for connections from Europe), and nearby Malé in the Maldives. The airport is 6km (3 3⁄4 miles) from the city center, and you can pick up a set-fee prepaid taxi for the journey into town inside the terminal, or shell out a little more and arrange with John Thomas (Kerala Adventures; touch@keralaadventure.com) for one of his charming drivers to pick you up (Rs 495–Rs 695 to Kovalam beach, depending on whether or not you need A/C; Rs 1,045–Rs 1,465 to Chowara or Poovar).

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