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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [251]

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hillock behind the chic lobby (a converted 300-year-old traditional pathayam, or granary), granite and pebble pathways lead to the thatch-roofed cottages with cool interiors—very basically furnished, but with polished terraces from where you can listen to the rustling forest sounds; outside and in, the scents of plantation spices and fruit fill the air. Cottage interiors feature whitewashed walls—there’s no art, but terra-cotta tile floors, unusual lamps and lots of dark wood offset by beautifully colored fabric keep things interesting; a few have stained glass and breezy loggias. There was a strong commitment to the environment during construction, and today rainwater is harvested and water recycled, and the kitchen uses only organic farm produce—bathroom amenities and laundry products are also organic. And, thanks to a new chef, service has improved, but if it’s still slow, grin and bear it—the location is so lovely that you simply have to adapt to the pace and enjoy it.

Murikkady P.O., Kumily, Idukki 685 535. 04869/22-2132 or -3232. Fax 04869/22-3022. www.shalimarkerala.net. shalimar_resort@vsnl.com. 18 units, some with tubs. Oct 15–Mar Rs 7,500–Rs 10,000 elegant room double, Rs 10,000–Rs 12,500 Kerala cottage double, Rs 12,500–Rs 15,000 elegant cottage double, Rs 15,000–Rs 17,500 Honeymoon cottage double, Rs 3,750 extra adult, Rs 2,500 per child; Apr–Oct 14 Rs 6,000 elegant room double, Rs 7,000 Kerala cottage double, Rs 8,000 elegant cottage double, Rs 10,000 Honeymoon cottage double, Rs 1,500 extra adult, Rs 750 per child. Children under 6 free without extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, lounge, reading room w/small library and TV, bar service; airport transfers (Rs 3,500–Rs 4,000); Ayurvedic center; large outdoor pool; yoga. In room: Heater, Wi-Fi (Rs 150/hr.).

Spice Village Alive with the fragrance of lemon grass, this huge “rustic village” resort is the most professionally run in the area, with groomed grounds, well-maintained bungalows, and the best staff-to-guest ratio in Thekaddy. Spread over a huge area around a network of pathways and intersections, the whitewashed cottages are very pretty, each one topped with thatch—a swell of thick elephant grass propped up by slim timber poles. Interiors are spacious but simply furnished (no need to shell out for the “deluxe” units unless you want more privacy and a bathtub). From the moment you arrive, staff is eager to please: They arrange guided plantation tours, Periyar excursions, excellent Ayurvedic spa, and various cultural and wildlife activities, including the services of qualified naturalists. With an organic farm, vermi composting site, and paper-making center, you know you’re supporting eco-friendly policies—you can also help by frequenting the carbon-neutral restaurant.

Thekkady-Kumily Rd., Thekkady 685 536. 04869/22-2314 through -2316. Reservations: c/o CGH Earth, Casino Bldg., Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003. 0484/301-1711. Fax 0484/266-8001. www.cghearth.com. 52 units, some with tubs. Nov–Apr 294€–329€ standard villa double, 414€–444€ deluxe villa double, 82€ extra person; May–Oct Rs 9,210 standard villa double, Rs 13,225 deluxe villa double, Rs 2,860 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. Breakfast-only rates available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurant, bar w/billiards table; Ayurvedic center; badminton court; basketball court; cooking demonstrations; cultural performances; nature center and 3 naturalists; pool; room service; tennis court, Wi-Fi (in restaurant and nature center; free); yoga and meditation. In room: A/C and fan, fridge, hair dryer.

Wildernest An unwieldy-looking stone and brick construction, designed around a jackfruit tree, this budget boutique hotel stands on a small plot beside the main road leading to the reserve entrance. Accommodations are huge, high-ceiling, spotless rooms with homey, unfussy furnishing, wildlife watercolor prints, and tidy finishes—what more could you want? Well, folks at Wildernest throw in a brilliant breakfast and offer well-meaning assistance

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