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relative luxury in addition to dazzling views from perfectly positioned private balconies. Warm, discreet service is designed to make you feel as if you’re lord of your very own plantation estate. The surrounding landscape is exceptionally good for early-morning walks, organized daily, and you can try your luck fishing in one of several nearby streams. Food is fresh family cuisine, with everything sourced from local farms; like so many homestay-type experiences, it far surpasses the buffets you get at the five-star resorts.

P.O. Box 21, Pothamedu, Munnar 685 612. 04865/23-0512. Fax 04865/23-0978. Reservations: c/o Mr. Shamnaaz or Ms. Divya Raj, Windermere House, Seaport-Airport Rd., Trikkakara, Kochi 682 021. 0484/242-5237. Fax 0484/242-7575. www.windermeremunnar.com. info@windermeremunnar.com. 18 units. Rs 5,150–Rs 6,850 valley view double; Rs 7,850–Rs 10,250 cottage double; Rs 11,750–Rs 14,250 Planter’s Villa double; add 25% per extra person. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V. Amenities: Dining room, library-lounge, tearoom; basketball; fishing; Internet (currently only broadband; Rs 100/hr.); trekking; Wi-Fi (planned; 1⁄2hr. free, thereafter Rs 100/hr.). In room TV (in cottages and Planter’s Villas), fridge (in cottages and Planter’s Villas), hair dryer.

7 Northern Kerala

Kozhikode is 146km (91 miles) NW of Kochi; Kannur is 92km (57 miles) NW of Kozhikode

Even though northern Kerala’s history as a major spice-trade destination is well documented, it remains relatively untouched by tourism. This is largely because of the 8-hour drive it takes to get here from Kerala’s better-favored (and more rigorously developed) beaches and backwaters in the south. Nevertheless, this can be a wonderful region to explore if you are looking to get away from the tourist crowds, and have time to spare. Certainly if you’re traveling overland from Mysore, Karnataka, to Kerala, it makes excellent sense to spend a day or two exploring this relatively untouched part of the subcontinent, particularly the Wyanad Hills, which remains one of India’s last true wilderness areas. Malabar’s far northern coastal region, stretching from Kannur all the way up to Bekal, just before the state’s border with Karnartaka, has also begun to undergo its evolution into a tourist destination, albeit one for a more laid-back and crowd-free experience. The area now boasts one of the loveliest places to stay in all Kerala, and the beaches here are virgin territory. A warning, though: While this remains an excellent place for travelers keen to escape the predictable tourist hot spots, the area is gearing up to see a big increase in visitors

ESSENTIALS

VISITOR INFORMATION In Kozhikode (formerly Calicut), a Kerala Tourism information booth ( 0495/270-2606; daily 10am–1pm and 2–5pm) is located at the railway station. In Kannur, inquire at the Kannur District Tourism Promotion Council (Taluka Office Campus; 0497/270-6336; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, closed Sun and second Sat of the month).

GETTING THERE By Air There are daily flight connections to Karipur Airport ( 0495/271-2630 or -1314)—located 25km (16 miles) south of Kozhikode—with Mumbai, Chennai, Kochi, Trivandrum, Goa, Mangalore and Coimbatore. International flights from Dubai and Doha also land here regularly, making direct connections from Europe possible. Note, though, that the nearest airport for destinations in the far north of Kerala is actually Mangalore, over the border in Karnataka. An airport is currently being planned for Kannur.

By Road Kozhikode, Kannur, Thallassery, Kanhangad and Bekal are all on National Highway 17, which gets tricky in places as you head farther north. To get from Kozhikode to Vythiri in the Wyanad mountain ranges, you’ll need to take the Kozhikode-Bengaluru highway; best to hire a car and driver (see “Getting Around,” under Kochi). If you have more time (and less money), look into bus connections which are ultimately available from just about anywhere; call the local KSRTC Office in Kozhikode on 0495/2723-796.

By Train Kozhikode and Kannur are both important jumping-off