India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [267]
The 8th-century Parthasarathy Temple (off Triplicane High Rd., west of South Beach Rd.; daily 7am–noon and 4–8pm) is very near the main drag of Marina Beach; dedicated to Krishna, it is believed to be Chennai’s oldest temple, though extensively renovated by the Vijaynagar kings in the 16th century.
Farther south (this is quite a long walk, but pleasant enough given it’s along South Beach Rd. with views of the beach and sea; if it’s too hot, catch a rickshaw), near the lighthouse, lies Mylapore’s Basilica of San Thome (San Thome High Rd., Mylapore; daily 6am–6pm), where the so-called final resting place of Thomas the Apostle has become a neon-lit attraction. Legend has it that St. Thomas, one of Christ’s disciples, was martyred at St. Thomas Mount (see below) after spending the final years of his life preaching on a nearby beach. Stained-glass windows recount the slain saint’s tale, and wooden panels depict Christ’s final days on earth. The interior is also now decked with modern kitsch: bits of tinsel, polystyrene, and a halo of fairy lights.
Near the basilica (1km west) is Chennai’s most impressive temple: Kapaleshvara (also spelled Kapaleeshwar/Kapaleswarar; off Kutchery Rd. and Chitrukullan N. St., Mylapore; daily 6am–12:30pm and 4–8:30pm) is a classic example of Dravidian architecture, and the thronging devotees will give you an idea of what Tamil Nadu’s devout worship is all about. The temple is marked by a 36m (118-ft.) goparum (gateway) tower adorned with detailed figures and inscriptions dating from A.D. 1250; if you’re destined for the temples of Tamil Nadu this is a fine foretaste (though by the same token, missable if you’re pushed for time). A hive of activity at the best of time, the place really comes alive during the Arupathumoovar Festival, held usually around 10 days in March. From here you can walk to Luz Church (Luz Church Rd.), built by the Portuguese, and said to be the oldest church in Chennai.
If the congestion and chaos of Chennai has you beat, hop in a cab and visit the peaceful 16th-century Church of our Lady of Expectations (Senhora da Expectação), atop St. Thomas Mount. Built in 1523 by the Portuguese, the little church provides fine views over the city and is serenely removed from the city’s nonstop commotion. Along the way (or on the way back), spend some time roaming the gardens of the Theosophical Society , a sprawling 108 hectares (270 acres) of rambling pathways and shaded by trees including an enormous Banyan tree, said to be 400 years old. The society was founded in 1875 in New York by American Civil War veteran Col. Henry S. Olcott and Russian Madame Helena Petrovna Blavatsky. They based their belief primarily on Hinduism but promoted the equality and truth of all religions. The duo moved it to Chennai in 1882. The international headquarters of the society is still here, in the 1776 Huddlestone mansion, where relief imagery and quotations representing various faiths are on display, and there is an excellent library, though to gain full use of the latter you need to register with the society (E. Adyar; 044/2491-3528, -7198, or -2904; daily 8:30–10am and 2–4pm).
CENTRAL CHENNAI At the heart of Chennai, Anna Salai is the city’s major business-lined artery. North of Anna Salai is Egmore, where you will find Chennai’s top museum, and to the west, Nungambakkam, an upmarket residential area that is home to an increasing number of hotels and businesses, as well as Khader Nawaz Khan Road, where you will find the densest concentration of Chennai’s boutique and high-street stores. Best to hop onto auto-rickshaws to get around this congested part of the city.
The Government Museum and National Gallery (Pantheon Rd.; 044/2819-3238; admission to Pantheon Complex Rs 250; camera fee extra; Sat–Thurs 9:30am–5pm) is considered one of the finest receptacles of 10th- and 13th-century bronze sculpture in the country, including the Chola Nataraj—sculptures of Shiva dancing in a ring of cosmic fire, these are almost as definitive of India as the Taj Mahal. The museum, a complex of six buildings and 46