India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [273]
Taj Fisherman’s Cove This bright, breezy resort—ideal if you have no desire for city pleasures—is set on 8.8 manicured hectares (25 acres) bordering the beach, with a labyrinth of tidy, shrub-lined pathways and, at it’s center, a gorgeous pool, replete with swim-up bar. It’s a total refuge from the city, yet within the hour you are in bustling Chennai; it’s proximity to the city means it is also one of the busiest beach resorts in India, welcoming corporate jamborees during the week and extended families over weekends, all reveling in their beachfront escape. Most guest rooms are in the main hotel block, which can be incredibly noisy; better by far to book one of the shell-shaped garden cottages scattered about the cropped lawns—these are delightful, with bamboo-enclosed alfresco showers, bright interiors and breezy patios with Chettinad swings (sea-view cottages C4–C14, right on the beach, are best). Larger luxury sea-facing villas are also available; each with semiprivate garden and palm trees supporting your own hammock. The Cove is simply a great place to catch your breath, with a vast array of activities; the seaside restaurant (reviewed below) is also a treat.
Covelong Beach, Kanchipuram District, Chennai 603 112. 044/6741-3333. Fax 044/6741-3330. www.tajhotels.com. fishcove.Chennai@tajhotels.com. 50 units, 38 cottages. Rs 10,000 standard double room; Rs 11,000 standard sea-view double; Rs 12,500 cottage garden-view double; Rs 15,500 sea-view cottage; Rs 17,500 sea-view villa with private garden. Supplements charged Dec 22–Jan 8. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; beach volleyball; badminton; bicycles; catamaran trips; children’s activity center; cycling; ecology tours/walks; fishing excursions; fitness club; Internet (Rs 330/hr.); library; pool; spa; tennis. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 224/1 hr.; Rs 600/day).
WHERE TO DINE
The city has a dearth of independent fine-dining options, with almost all still remaining cloistered in the city’s five-star hotels; of these the Great Kabab Factory at the Hotel Radisson draws a very vocal and loyal local following, despite it’s inconvenient location near the airport. The ‘Factory’ offers a fixed menu featuring five melt-in-the-mouth kebabs (two chicken, two mutton, one fish), served with a delicious selection of specialty breads; it’s challenging but try to leave space for the dal and choice of biryanis that follow.
Fine dining aside, we’d like to encourage you to experience the delicious and varied flavors of South India surrounded by Chennaites; better still, do so with your hands (see “Eating with Your Hands,” below); other than heading for a Saravana Bavan outlet, there is the slightly more salubrious Woodlands Hotel option, reviewed below—both Chennai institutions. South Indian restaurants in Chennai are usually vegetarian; if you need your protein, opt for a Chettinad restaurant, where meats are coated in intense spices. Aside from the atmospheric Raintree (reviewed below), there’s Karaikudi : the original is at 84 Radhakrishna Salai ( 044/2491-0900) but there are now quite a few branches all over the city. It’s by no means fine dining (for that Raintree is the ticket) but the food is good. Try the special Chettiar chicken pepper roast with appams, the Kadia (quail roast), or the Varuval (fried pigeon) and unbelievably good value: an average meal here will run you a mere Rs 100 to Rs 150 per person!
If you’re bored with South Indian food, you’ll also find many of the world’s tastes well represented in the city. If you’re mood is for the richer sauces of North India, Dhaba Express