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the sanctum doesn’t become clogged with devotees, many of whom succumb to the moment by falling to the ground. Waiting amid the mass of anxious, highly charged pilgrims, you’ll get a good sense of the religious fervor of the Hindu faith. By the time you reach the moment of darshan, thousands of excited, expectant worshipers will be behind you, chanting Vishnu’s name. Once out of the inner shrine (one of the few in South India that non-Hindus can enter), you’ll make your way past a massive fish-tank-like enclosure, where temple clerks count the day’s takings—possibly the most cash you’re ever likely to see in one place.

Note: As you’re waiting in line, you’ll see many shaven heads—it’s common practice for believers to have their heads tonsured before going before the deity as a devotional sacrifice. As a result, a lucrative human hair business contributes significantly to the temple coffers—Far East and Italian wig manufacturers are major consumers of world-renowned Tirumalai hair, shorn by a fleet of barbers permanently in the service of the temple.

Jumping the Queue

Wealthier pilgrims can now make use of a computerized virtual queue system that streamlines the darshan experience. Pilgrims buy an armband imprinted with their darshan time, shaving hours—even days—off their wait in line. Foreign visitors should bring their passports and appeal to the Assistant Executive Officer or A.E.O. (ask one of the temple police for directions) for a special darshan ticket, which costs anywhere from Rs 200 to Rs 4,000 depending on the kind of speedy access you request (you will also be fingerprinted and photographed at this stage; ask your hotel if you need to book this a day in advance). Paid for at a special counter, it cuts waiting time to around 2 hours. Note that men must wear long pants or lungis; women must be conservatively dressed with long skirts and shoulders covered. Prior to entering the queue, you’ll be asked to sign allegiance to the god. Avoid taking part if you suffer from claustrophobia, since you’ll still have to spend an hour or two within cagelike passages designed to prevent line-jumping. Temple activities commence at 3am with a wake-up call to the idol (suprabhatham) and continue until 12:45am the following morning. On Sundays the temple closes.

ESSENTIALS For information you can log on to www.ttdsevaonline.com for tickets, but you’ll more than likely find everything sold out—in which case you can try calling the call center ( 0877/223-3333 or 0877/227-7777, ext. 3679). The easiest ways to get here are by plane (the nearest airport, Renigunta, has regular flights from Chennai, Hyderabad, and Bangalore); alternatively travel by train from Chennai (or Hyderabad, Bangalore, or Mumbai). To overnight, prebook a room at the dependable (and popular) Fortune Kences ( 0877/225-5855; www.fortuneparkhotels.in; kences@fortuneparkhotels.com; doubles from around Rs 1,900), which is located in the heart of the town, near the temple, and draws the well-heeled devotees. Service is very good, and the hotel is comfortable (but not luxurious).

2 Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram)

51km (31 miles) S of Chennai

A visit to this once-thriving port city of the Pallavas, a dynasty that ruled much of South India between the 4th and 9th centuries A.D., is an excellent introduction to South Indian temple architecture, and the surrounding resorts offer a much more holiday atmosphere than Chennai. Established by Mamalla, “the Great Wrestler,” the tourist town of Mahabalipuram attracts thousands to view the earliest examples of monumental architecture in southern India—incredible rock-cut shrines that celebrate Hinduism’s sacred pantheon and legends. Even today, the descendents of these early sculptors continue to create carvings for temples, hotel foyers, and tourists; the sounds of sculptors chipping away at blocks of stone echo through the narrow lanes, an aural reminder of the sort of devoted craftsmanship that must have possessed the original masons who created the World Heritage monuments. It’s possible to survey the best monuments in a