India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [280]
EXPLORING THE SHRINES & TEMPLES
Mahabalipuram’s monolithic shrines and rock-cut cave temples lie scattered over a landscape heaped with boulders and rocky hillocks. Among these, the excellent Shore Temple, built to Lord Shiva, and the Five Rathas, a cluster of temples named for the five Pandava brothers of Mahabharata fame, are definitely worth seeking out, so too the celebrated Arjuna’s Penance, largest relief-carving on earth—try to see these as early in the day as possible, before busloads of noisy vacationers descend. Also try to view Mahishamardini Mandapa (give the nearby government-run Sculpture Museum a miss). If you feel the need to visit an active temple, head for Talasayana Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu. It stands on the site of an original 9th-century Pallava temple but was rebuilt during the 14th century by the Vijayanagar King Parang Kusan, who feared that the sea would eventually erode Shore Temple. Half-hour puja (prayer) sessions are conducted daily at 9am, 11:30am, and 7:30pm. About 4km (2 1⁄2 miles) north of Mahabalipuram, Tiger Cave (Covelong Rd.) is the site of an 8th-century shrine to the tiger-riding goddess Durga. It’s thought that the shallow cave, with its sculpted yalis (mythical beasts) framing the entrance, might have been used for open-air performances.
Arjuna’s Penance Opposite Talasayana Perumal Temple, the world’s largest bas-relief is commonly referred to as “The Descent of the Ganges,” depicting the sacred penance performed by one of the Pandava brothers. Standing on one leg, the meditative Arjuna contemplates Shiva—a painful reparation performed while lively representations of the gods, celestial nymphs, elephants, monkeys, and other creatures look on. A naturally occurring cleft down the rock is said to represent the Ganges, a symbol that comes to life during the rainy season when water flows into a tank below. Just a few feet away, to the left of Arjuna’s Penance, is Krishna Mandapam , another bas-relief, carved in the mid–7th century; this one depicts Krishna using his divine strength to lift a mountain to protect people from imminent floods. The duality of the god’s nature is expressed in carvings of him going about more mundane activities, including flirting with his milkmaids. Near Arjuna’s Penance, to the north, is the huge spherical boulder known as Krishna’s Butter Ball, balancing on a hillside.
W. Raja St.
Mahishasuramardini Cave A lighthouse tops the hill where you’ll find a number of superb rock-cut shrines—seek out Mahishasuramardini Mandapa, remarkable for the two impressive friezes at each end of its long veranda. In the panel to the right, Durga, the terrifying mother of the universe, is seated astride her lion vahana wielding an assortment of weapons. She is in the process of destroying the buffalo-headed demon, Mahisha, who disturbs the delicate balance of life. At the opposite end of the veranda, Vishnu is depicted sleeping peacefully on his serpent bed, the sea of eternity; gathered around him, the gods appeal to him to continue the creation. Also atop the hill, Adivaraha Mandap features various sculpted figures and mythical scenes, including one large panel of Vishnu as a gigantic boar.
W. Raja St.
Panch Pandava Rathas The initial sight of these five (panch) monolithic stone shrines, set in a sandy fenced-off clearing, is dramatic, even though the structures themselves—named for the five brother-heroes of the Mahabharata and resembling temple chariots (rathas)—are incomplete. The ancient sculpting techniques are astonishing: Carved out of single pieces of rock from the top down, these shrines reveal perfect, precise planning. The dome-shaped shikhara (tower finial) found on some of the temples became the template for later South Indian temples, successful experiments that were further refined and enlarged.
E. Raja St., 1km (a half-mile) south of Arjuna’s Penance. Tickets available from ASI booth at the entrance. Single ticket for both Five Rathas and Shore Temple