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By Root 1976 0

consciousness, the ashram opened in 1926. With a significant following and numerous published titles to his credit, Aurobindo finally left the running of the ashram to Mirra, retreating into solitary confinement for 24 years before finally passing away in 1950; The Mother followed in 1973. Today, those who share their vision of a better world come to pray and meditate aside the memorial chambers (samadhis) of Sri Aurobindo and The Mother, which lie in the center of the incredibly peaceful main courtyard. It’s a very humble place, not like the huge or ancient temples typical of Tamil, but the atmosphere is sacred. Within the house (where the couple once lived) you will find the wise elders of the ashram, who are available for questions—if you have any burning spiritual issues, this is the place to air them; the answers you will receive will inspire. (Don’t forget to visit Lakshmi at nearby Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple afterwards.)

Rue de la Marine. 0413/223-3649. www.sriaurobindosociety.org.in Free admission; no children under 3. Daily 6am–noon and 2–6:30pm.

The City of Dawn: Sixties Sci-Fi in the 21st Century

Conceived in 1964 by Sri Aurobindo’s French-born disciple, Mirra Alfassa (“The Mother”; see “What to See & Do: Aurobindo Ashram”), the experimental “universal town” of Auroville (literally “City of Dawn”) was founded on a tract of land some 8km (5 miles) north of Pondi. It was based on Mirra’s vision of a place that could not be claimed or owned by any nation or creed, where people who aspire to “a higher and truer life” could live freely and in peace, devoted to the practice and discovery of Divine Consciousness—a city that would ultimately become a living embodiment of the essential human unity. Largely designed by French architect Roger Anger, Auroville drew a group of citizens from all corners of the globe and was inaugurated in 1968, when soils from around the world (128 nations and Indian states) were symbolically placed as a gesture of Universal Understanding in an urn along with the Auroville Charter. Today it is still home to a suitably diverse population, and understandably somewhat insular; some have been here from its inception, but many more continue to arrive over the years, making this the most interesting, globally representative community in India, and effectively its only privately owned “suburb,” built almost entirely on the hippie principles typical of the ’60s.

At its spiritual and physical heart is the huge futuristic spherical structure spanning 36m (118 ft.) in diameter and known as Matrimandir, or Mother’s temple, a symbolic space devoted to the “divine creatrix.” Covered in glistening gold discs fixed to the outer surface of the dome, it looks like a faux UFO from a 1960s sci-fi film set. The inner marble chamber houses 12 meditation “petals” (each concerning attitudes towards the Divine and humanity worth striving for, such as sincerity, humility, gratitude, courage, generosity, and peace). At the center is a huge man-made crystal (said to be the largest in the world) that reflects the sun’s rays and produces a concentrated light to enhance meditation. Visitors wishing to enter the Matramandir must make an appointment after visiting the Garden and 2 days in advance ( 0413/2622268; call 2-4pm).

Radiating from the Matrimandir and its gardens, which also have an amphitheater (built with red Agra stone) where the occasional performance is held, the city is architecturally conceived along the lines of a galaxy, evolving organically within certain preset parameters. The original design planned accommodations for 50,000 residents; currently there are about 1,500 from 35 countries, all apparently committed to being “willing servitors of the Divine Consciousness.” Every year new citizens are accepted into the City of Dawn, based on the needs of the existing population and following a stringent evaluation. Far more than a place for devotion and meditation, Auroville is an experiment in self-sufficient living that supposedly takes both nature and culture into account, with all members providing