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like a local, and want quick service (a rarity in Pondi), then head for Aristo, a rooftop restaurant overlooking chaotic Nehru Street. Expect little from the decor—plastic seating and plain crockery—but at night the place is breezy, lit with fairy lights, and enthusiastically twittering birds in a cage compete with a background soundtrack of pop songs and the honks and beeps of busy traffic below. Food is very reasonable and for the most part pretty good. Make a beeline for the biryanis (prepared for 4 hr.); if you find it’s too hot to eat something meaty (often the case) try the poisson du chef: Chef Anwar’s special fish in mushroom sauce. Or try the Ceylon egg paratha (pancakelike bread, stuffed with meat and onions, wrapped in egg, and fried lightly); accompany that with just about anything that strikes your fancy—it’s all extremely tasty and excellent value for money.

114 Nehru St. 0413/233-4524 or 0413/430-8202. Main courses: Rooftop Rs 90–Rs 200; Chettinad restaurant almost everything under Rs 100. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–4:30pm and 6:30–10pm.

Salle A Manger CONTINENTAL/INDIAN Located in a new heritage hotel called Calve, yet another upscale hotel to open in the Tamil part of town, this newbie is currently the classiest dining option in Pondicherry. Like Carte Blanche (see above) Salle A Manger serves Franco-Tamil Creole cuisine, but the emphasis here is more firmly on the Indian (best to choose from this menu), and the surroundings more salubrious. It’s a great place to come and celebrate a special occasion but at press time had been struggling to make inroads in the local dining community, so if you’re not traveling in peak season and you like your restaurants bustling, best call ahead and find out just how busy they expect to be on the night you plan to visit.

36 Vysial St. 0413/222-3738. calve@vsnl.net, info@calve.in. Main courses Rs 100–Rs 220. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–4:30pm and 6:30–10pm.

Satsanga FRENCH This Pondi institution, still owner-run by Pierre Elouard, an expat from the south of France who has been living in Auroville for well over 40 years, is considered the best French restaurant in Pondi. It’s certainly a pleasant enough venue, particularly in the evenings when the alfresco courtyard-style restaurant, with deep eaves all round to keep it cool, looks at its most romantic. Furnishings and general maintenance are less stellar during the harsh light of day, and we’ve heard some complaints about lackadaisical service; not enough to stop the large contingency of French tourists Pondi attracts from dining here however. If you’re a carnivore, opt for their legendary green-pepper filet (filet au poivre vert) or the fish Provençal; the bouillabaisse is also a signature.

30 Labourdonnais St.; 0413/222-5867. Main courses Rs 200–Rs 300. MC, V. Daily 8am–10pm.

SHOPPING

Pondicherry is paradise for shoppers: Not only because of the cosmopolitan and hugely creative effect Auroville has had on the retail market, but just about everything is within walking distance (and there are plenty of eager rickshaws if not), and the goods on offer are often better value than what is charged in Delhi and Mumbai, where much of the Auroville and ashram goods are destined.

First stop has to be Mission Street to spend at least an hour at Auroville’s best outlet, Kalki (132 Mission St.; 0413/233-9166), where you browse for super nonleather footwear, hand-painted silk clothing, perfumed candles, incense, oils, ceramics, jewelry, and handmade paper items to the accompaniment of artsy, esoteric music. It’s not that cheap, but the atmosphere and selection is fantastic. If there’s anything you want that’s not in your size, you can arrange to have it made and couriered to your next destination. Across the road is Casablanca (165 Mission St.; 0413/222-6495 or 0413/233-6495), one of South India’s funkiest department stores (owned by the glam couple who created Le Dupleix and The Promenade), with top international brands spread over three floors. If you love linen, head straight upstairs and peruse the gorgeous Gecko stock (gecko@auroville.org.in).