India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [304]
Royal Court This unpretentious, professionally run hotel offers very good value—certainly the standard rooms are the best in this price category—and is certainly the best option if you want to be right in the heart of this bustling temple town (though, if you’re on an even tighter budget, the nearby Hotel Park Plaza as mentioned above will do very well). It’s literally a stone’s throw from (virtually opposite) the station and a 10-minute walk from the Meenakshi Temple (20 min. from the airport). It’s not luxurious but very comfortable, with basic hotel rooms aimed at business travelers who require certain standards, including double-glazed windows to ensure that you’re cocooned from the chaos below. Another good reason to stay here is the food; the rooftop terrace, Mogul, serves great meals and enjoys the same views as the more famous Supreme (you can wave to the Supreme guests across the rooftops), but the surroundings, with plenty of lush plants to soften the edges, are more salubrious. Note that in strict accordance to the beliefs of the owners, no alcohol is served in the hotel. There’s also no pool to cool off in.
4 West Veli St., Madurai 625 004. 0452/435-6666. Fax 0452/437-3333. www.royalcourtindia.com. 69 units. Rs 3,100 standard double, Rs 4,000 executive double; Rs 6,000 suite. Rs 600 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; airport transfer (free); gym; Internet; room service. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (Rs 100/hr.).
The (Taj) Gateway Hotel, Pasumalai Madurai Situated on a hillock known as Pasumalai, and blessed with 25 hectares (62 acres) of tree-filled grounds, this colonial-style hotel—offers panoramic views of the sprawling town, including the tall goparums of its most famous temple. The main building, built in 1891, is decorated with hunting trophies and includes a well-stocked colonial-style bar with deep verandas, wicker chairs, and whirring overhead fans. Accommodations are spread over 5 different blocks (let them know if you’re not mobile); the best are the very spacious executive rooms, offering fantastic views of the city and temple from wide bay windows (book room no. 21 or 22) and balconies. Superior rooms are also very comfortable, offering either pool or garden views. It’s not nearly as glamorous as Heritance, but the old-style accommodations and warm, attentive service (though it can be slow!) make this still our favorite pick.
40 T.P.K. Rd., Pasumalai, Madurai 625 004. 0452/237-1601. Fax 0452/237-1636. www.tajhotels.com. 63 units. Rs 6,500 standard double; Rs 7,600 superior double; Rs 8,200 executive double. Extra bed Rs 1,000. Rates include breakfast. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; airport transfers (Rs 529); Ayurvedic center; babysitting; badminton court; Internet access; pool; room service; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.
Tracking Elephants in the Forested Ghats of Tamil Nadu
The Eastern and Western Ghats (mountain ranges) of South India meet in Tamil Nadu and it is here, deep in the cool highlands, that some of India’s most popular hill stations are located. As elsewhere, these “stations” were traditionally where the British retreated to during the hottest months, and they are still immensely popular summer destinations, though now predominantly with domestic visitors, who fill the streets of Ooty and Coonor (located in the Nilgiri Hills) and Kodaikanal (in the Palani Hills) to capacity. For the most part these hill stations are truly not worth the time and effort it takes to get to them, with plenty of unchecked development stripping them of their original charm, and huge visitor numbers (500,000 descended on Ooty in Apr 2009 alone). The real gems of the Ghats lie off the beaten path, surrounded