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By Root 2163 0

amazingly enough, right in the heart of this city of steel, glass, and concrete. Service is personal and exceptional, with the kind of attention guests probably enjoyed a century ago, and furnishings in keeping with the heritage character. Set meals are served indoors, or outdoors under a canopy of mango trees; everything we tried was delicious. As at all Neemrana properties, each guest room is different; if you’re fussy, ask for a tour of unoccupied others before making your mind up. The Venkatagiri Suite, with a turquoise-blue Venkatagiri sari covering the bed, offers incredible value, with a living room, a private dressing area, an area for kids, two large wardrobes, a bathroom with a large bathtub, and a veranda. The Rajadurga Suite rewards early birds with spectacular sunrise views. The fabulous Kanchipuram Suite has a private pillared balcony, an anteroom for kids, and an old-fashioned, lime-green bathroom.

142, 8th Cross, 4th Main Rd., Malleswaram, Bengaluru 560 003. 080/2336-0777 or 080/4128-0832 through -0834. Fax 080/5128-0835. www.neemranahotels.com. 8 units. Rs 4,000–Rs 6,000 double; Rs 800 extra bed. Rates include morning “bed tea” and evening tea. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; bar; airport transfer (Rs 900); concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/day).

WHERE TO DINE

With Bengaluru’s IT boom, the number of professionals with disposable cash keeps rising exponentially—leading in turn to a perpetual explosion of options on the dining scene. We’ve reviewed a combination of upmarket eateries with excellent and very atmospheric budget alternatives.

As in Tamil Nadu, you can get a good, clean, wholesome vegetarian tiffin (“light meal”) all over Bengaluru. Most famous of all is MTR (reviewed below); but equally good for its Tamil Iyengar food, especially the must-have puliyogere (a kind of tamarind rice), is Kadambam (112 C South Block, Manipal Centre, Dickenson Rd.; other branches as well). Gold-framed pictures of deities line the wall, the simple open kitchen is spotless, the food is cheap and delicious, and the filter coffee—if, that is, you’ve developed a taste for sweetened South Indian filter coffee—extraordinary. Vidyarthi Bhavan (32, Gandhi Bazaar; 080/2667-7588) is where you head for the best masala dosas in town, while for authentic Karnataka cuisine, Halli Mane (no. 14, 3rd Cross Rd., off Sampige Rd., Malleswaram; 080/4127-9754) is Bengaluru’s busiest restaurant, serving pure vegetarian, dirt-cheap thalis, or buffet meals (Rs 75). For affordable, nonvegetarian coastal Karnataka cuisine, Unicorn (94/3 Infantry Rd.; 080/2559-1670) is great. The menu changes every week, but expect fish, coconut milk, and lots of flavor—ask for the signature Unicorn Special Prawns. And if you aren’t hopping across to Hyderabad, have a taste of excellent Andhra cuisine at Bheema’s (No. 31 Asha Bldg., Church St.; 080/2558-7389)—almost everything is great and super spicy so bring a few tissues! There are a couple of rooftop restaurants with eclectic menus that are very popular as well: Ebony (13th Floor, Ivory Tower Hotel, Barton Centre, 84 M.G. Rd.; 080/2558-9333) more for its open-air views, and Paparazzi (reviewed below) for its innovative cuisine—both have great ambience and music and an excellent bar attached.

The most delicious ice creams and sundaes are available at Corner House (44/1 Residency Rd.; 080/2521-6312), which, owing to its popularity, is arguably the narrowest space with the biggest vibe in Bengaluru. The Death By Chocolate (Rs 115) is just that—no trip to Bengaluru is complete without at least one shot at surviving it. And given that caffeine runs in the blood here, you’ll have no problems getting your fix—great coffee options available with eats at Café Coffee Day, Barrista and Nilgiri Café outlets all over the city. But if you really want the best of the lot, make an effort and head for Brahmin’s Café (daily 8am–10pm), a hole-in-he-wall tucked into the crowded lanes of Chamrajpet, close to Ramakrishna Ashram—straightforward