India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [317]
Taj Gateway Hotel, 66 Residency Rd. 080/6660-4545. www.tajhotels.com. Main courses Rs 1,500–Rs 2,000; lunch thali Rs 750–Rs 950. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:30pm.
Koshy’s Restaurant and the Jewel Box INDIAN/CONTINENTAL Easily the most popular eating and meeting place on M.G. Road, this 50-year-old restaurant has changed little over the years. Food is varied, but it’s more or less beside the point; you come here for the energetic buzz. It’s a favorite gathering spot and has a distinct local flavor, attracting the coffeehouse intellectual and budding artist alike. You won’t be bothered at all if you prefer to linger endlessly over a beer (Rs 100) and your book. Those who would rather steer clear of the action can sit in the quieter, but rather bland, air-conditioned section, the Jewel Box.
39 St. Mark’s Rd. 080/2221-3793 or -5030. Average meal Rs 350. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30–3:30pm and 7:30–11pm.
Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) SOUTH INDIAN VEGETARIAN Possibly the essential Bengaluru eating experience, this is an excellent spot to sample the chaos of a traditional “tiffin” room, where scores of locals rush in for the Indian version of fast food, served since 1924 with attitude and gusto from shiny silver buckets by notoriously surly waiters in white. If you’re here during lunch, order a thali and eat with your fingers from a silver tray onto which various authentic South Indian concoctions are heaped and continuously replenished. You can also try the lighter fare, especially the Bisi Bele Bath, made out of rice, lentils, tamarind, chilies, ground spices, coconut, and vegetables and, last but not least, topped with calorie-intensive ghee. You sit in rather indecorous surroundings (the current venue was built in 1949 and hasn’t changed at all in over 40 years) on brown plastic chairs at marble-top tables with orange steel legs; grab a table upstairs. Tip: Adjacent, the MTR Store sells a wide range of South Indian treats and delicacies, including popular sweets (like badam halwa and ladu) and ready-to-eat savories.
14 Lal Bagh Rd. 080/2222-1706.mavallitiffinrooms.com. Typical meal Rs 75; individual items Rs 5–Rs 20. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 6:30am–noon, 12:30–2:30pm, and 7:30–9pm.
Paparazzi FUSION The head will surely spin as you enter this fabulous rooftop restaurant with its one of a kind two-story-high bar—enough to make teetotalers do a rethink! High ceilings swathed in fabric, dim lighting, candlelight, great music and the views couldn’t get any better—alas, it isn’t open during the day but the night lights look magnificent through the large plate-glass windows; the best way to experience the Bengaluru traffic. For those not brave enough to dive headlong into quintessential Indian, Chef Rana Dominic Gomes comes to the rescue with contemporary fusion food which is not always top class but certainly a welcome break from the “same old same old.” For starters go in for the delectable chicken chanduri (chicken tossed in peri peri sauce) and then head straight for the terrific chicken tikka risotto—our favorite; the tandoori salmon and the chicken roulade makhani are also good.
Royal Orchid Central, Dickenson Rd. 080/2558-4242.www.royalorchidhotels.com. Typical meal Rs 1,500 without wine and dessert. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11:45pm.
Swinging in the Hip City of Bengaluru
The following hip spots are