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(Note: A strict no-smoking law has been put into place in all public areas.)

Rejuvenation City: Tiptop Spas

Prompted by the emergence of an overstressed, well-heeled workforce, Bengaluru has a number of well-known luxury and medical spas. SPA.ce (70, Cunningham Rd.; 4132-7526;www.spacethespa.com; by appointment only), is a world-class stand-alone spa in the middle of the city that uses signature fragrances created by Ally Mathan. Of the hotel spas we recommend The Spa at Leela Palace Kempinski ( 080/2521-1234) and Jiva at Taj Residency; for more committed treatment programs, take a look at the following four luxury spas, all located about an hour outside Bengaluru. Aside from Shreyas (see “Where to Stay,” above), The Golden Palms Spa ( 080/2371-2222), owned by Bollywood director Sanjay Khan, is part of an upmarket resort that not only provides routine spa treatments, but is the spot for discreet cosmetic surgery and anti-aging treatments. The attitude toward pampering is more laid-back at the internationally affiliated Angsana Oasis Spa and Resort ( 080/2846-8893;www.angsana.com), offering spa packages from $825 for 2 nights (including taxes, meals, airport transfers, and a few treatments). Neither of these spas will restrict your diet or ban smoking or alcohol, and on weekends you can wholeheartedly tuck into their barbeque and grilled cuisine. In contrast, Soukya International Holistic Health Centre (in Whitefield, 30 min. from Bengaluru; 080/2794-5001 through -5004; www.soukya.com) is a medical spa that focuses on therapeutic and complementary therapies. Run by Dr. Isaac Mathai, his nutritionist wife, Suja, and a battery of experts, this is a nonsmoking, alcohol- and meat-free spa where everything is low fat, low salt, low spice, and organic. The focus is on individually created “holistic wellness programs” (from Hawaiian hot stone to specialized Ayurvedic treatments) that strengthen the body’s immune system, including those belonging to some rather famous people, like healthy-living guru Andrew Weil, Fergie, Princess of York, and Archbishop Desmond Tutu. (Note: If you are planning to continue to Goa from Karnataka, also take a look at Swaswara—a yoga retreat on the northern tip of Karnataka’s coast, bordering Goa.

SHOPPING

You’ll find the city’s major shopping centers along and around M.G. Road, Commercial Street, and Brigade Road. M.G. Road is where you’ll find the fixed-price tourist-oriented (no bargains or bargaining) Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium, Central Cottage Industries Emporium, and Karnataka State Silk Industries Emporium. Fabulous silks and home textiles, as well as contemporary silverware from Neemrana and traditional silver jewelry from Amrapali and Jaipur, are some of the highlights available in Shop Ananya, located next to the Hotel Sarovar at 9/1 Dhondusa Annexe, Richmond Circle ( 080/2299-8922). Mysore Saree Udyog (No. 294, first floor, Kamraj Rd, across from the entrance to Commercial St.; 080/2558-3255) is also popular with Westerners for fabrics in gorgeous colors and textures. But for the real experience, head for the shops on Chikpet Main Road, and let your head swim as you sit on floor mattresses, with salesmen opening sari after sari. And if it’s the gorgeous Indian jewelry that beckons, then look no further than the two oldest stores in Bengaluru, both of which were once patronized by the Mysore royalty—C. Krishnaiah Chetty & Son (Commercial St.; 080/2558-8731; www.ckcsons.com) and Ganjam Nagappa and Sons (Infantry Rd.; 080/2226-1233). Little more down to earth is Srishti (100 Ft. Rd., Indiranagar; 080/2521-0176; also at Leela Galleria)—ask for their antique jewelry collection. Speaking of antiques and other collectibles in bronze, stone, teak, and silver, call on Natesan’s Antiqarts (76 M.G. Rd.; 080/2558-8344 or -7427). Pick up beautiful ethnic home accessories, rugs, and other gifts at The Bombay Store (99 EGK Prestige, M.G. Rd.; 080/2532-0014 or -0015). With four levels of saris and salwar kameez (for women) and sherwanis (for men), and a nonstop