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Temple, where devotees circumambulate the statue in a clockwise direction while a friendly priest dishes out sacred water and dollops of vermilion paste. The summit of the hill is very active with pilgrims come to pay their respects to Durga. You can buy a darshan ticket from the computerized ticketing booth and join the queue for a peek at the deity inside Sri Chamundeswari Temple (3:30–6:30pm); or you can wander around the hilltop exploring smaller temples, many of which serve as bases for bright-robed grinning sadhus (holy persons) wanting to sell you a private photo opportunity. Near the Race Course is the Karinji Lake (8:30am–5:30pm), a particularly beautiful spot during the early morning and evening when you get to see a large number of birds—it also has a Butterfly Park for which you need a good reserve of patience and luck. Half an hour away from the city center, the Brindavan Gardens (park open from 10am–-8pm; light and fountain timings: 7–8pm summer, 6:30–7:30pm winter) are quite a sight—make sure you go in the evening when hundreds of lights make it very magical and get a taste of quintessential Indian joviality when a lone fountain at the end of the gardens breaks into a “dance” set to Indian film songs. You can also stay on at the Royal Orchid ( 0823/6257-257;www.royalorchidhotels.com; Rs 5,000 Queen–Rs 6,000 King doubles): superbly located, overlooking the gardens on one side and the dam with the river Cauvery on the other side. Modern and antiquated simultaneously, it’s a nice option if you want to explore the gardens in the morning and enjoy lazing over a book or beer.

Finally, no trip to Mysore is complete without getting lost in the dizzying scents of jasmine, musk, sandalwood, frangipani, and incense as you wander through the city’s vibrant Devraj Market . Mysore is also famous for its silk and sandalwood oil, and you can witness the production of both by taking a side trip to Vidyaranyapuram, 15 minutes away. For an escorted tour of the Government Silk Weaving Factory, call 0821/248-1803 (visiting hours daily 9–11am and 12:15–3:30pm; shop hours 9:30am–7pm); the Government Sandal Oil Factory is right next door (daily 11:30am–4pm). If time is short, you can also hop into Cauvery Arts and Crafts Emporium (Sayaji Rao Rd.; 10am–6pm) which is like a one-stop shop for all that Mysore has to offer. Although not open to casual visitors, an absolute eye-opener is the astonishing Infosys Global Education Centre ( 0821/240-4101) on the outskirts of the city—a world class campus spread over 135 hectares (335 acres) for budding IT trainees, it stands as a striking contrast to the stereotype of ramshackle educational institutions across the country. Use all contacts, pull all strings to set foot inside!

Keshava Temple Situated 38km (24 miles) from Mysore in the small village of Somnathpur, this is perhaps the best-preserved and most complete Hoysala monument in existence. Also referred to as Chennakeshava Temple, this beautiful religious monument is presided over by Vijayanarayana, one of the 24 incarnations of Vishnu. Built as early as 1268, it is constructed entirely of soapstone and rests on a raised plinth; typical of Hoysala temples, it has a star-shaped ground plan and exquisitely sculpted interiors. It’s really worth exploring in detail; you may have to urge or bribe the caretaker to crank up the generator so that you have enough light to properly observe the three shrines in the temple. Somnathpur is serene and remote, and the lawns around the monument are ideal for picnicking—ask your hotel for a packed lunch. The best time to photograph the temple is around 4:30pm, when the sun creates a fantastic play of shadow and light, especially along the row of pillars.

Somnathpur is 38km (24 miles) east of Mysore. Admission Rs 100. Daily 8am–5:30pm.

Maharajah’s Palace (Amba Vilas) Generally considered the palace in South India, this was designed by Henry Irving at the turn of the 20th century; 15 years of nonstop construction produced a fabulous domed, arched, colonnaded, and turreted structure with lavish interiors