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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [324]

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interiors are full of a motley assortment of antique furniture and colorful memorabilia. The Palace has only seven rooms (avoid the tiny Rose and Marigold rooms), but the New Wing has plenty more, all garden-facing, although they lack the historical flavor.

Chittaranjan Palace, 2270 Vinoba Rd., Jayalamipuram, Mysore 570 012. 0821/251-2536 or 0821/425-5000, -5001, and -5002. Fax 0821/251-6139. www.greenhotelindia.com. 31 units. New Wing: Rs 2,750—Rs 3,750 double. Palace Rooms: Rs 5,250 Marigold, Rs 3,250 Writer and Small Bollywood. Palace suites: Rs 6,250 Maharani Suite, Rs 5,750 Princess’s Room, Rose, and Large Bollywood. Rs 800 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; doctor-on-call; green auto-rickshaw service; Internet (Rs 130/hr.); library; room service; TV room; volleyball. In room: Fan.

Royal Orchid Metropole In the heritage category, it’s a bit of a tossup between The Green Hotel and the 120-year-old Royal Orchid Metropole, built by the Maharaja of Mysore to entertain his foreign guests. The stately colonial structure is a striking contrast to neighboring Hotel Regaalis (mentioned above) and extremely popular with foreign tourists for its laid-back ambience and good cuisine. The standard rooms are small but located away from the road, while the bigger royal rooms hear a fair amount of traffic noise—still, these are preferable given the greater charm of antique furniture and patios or balconies. The bathroom of the only suite in the hotel incidentally features the first bathtub to be brought to India from England, still functioning today without leaks! Real silver swings and chairs from Rajasthan adorn the tiny lobby, while a 100-year-old portrait of Tipu Sultan looms large in Tiger Trail, the in-house restaurant that is quite popular with locals as well.

5 Jhansi Lakshmibai Rd., Mysore 570005; 0821/425-5566.www.royalorchidhotels.com. 30 units. Rs 5,600 Royal; Rs 6,600 Heritage; Rs 7,500 Maharaja Suite. Rates include breakfast. Taxes extra. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; doctor-on-call; outdoor pool. In room: AC, TV, minibar; Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/day).

The Windflower Spa and Resort Situated in the quiet environs of the Mysore race course (3km/1 3⁄4 miles from the city center) and flanked in the distance by the Chamundi Hill, this relative newcomer is located on a 4-hectare (10-acre) property. It is midway between a high-end hotel and boutique resort, and exudes a sense of space from the moment you walk into its delightful reception area. Cottages line the shallow canal-like pond with gorgeous giant brass urlis (cauldrons) placed at intervals, and plenty of swaying palms. Almost the entire resort has been designed using furniture from Indonesia—massive low beds with a wooden step, chunky teak wood coffee tables, sofas with silk covers, and lots of cane and bamboo everywhere. The Emerge Spa offers plenty of treatments and won’t leave your pockets empty. (Warning: You will probably be greeted by a snow-white Australian cockatoo called Rosy, who has a fondness for punching holes in footwear.)

Maharanapratap Rd., Nazarbad, Mysore 570 010. 0821/252-2500. Fax 0821/252-2400. www.thewindflower.com. 39 units. Rs 4,500 Executive; Rs 5,400 Deluxe; Rs 7,200 Club Class Suite, Rs 9,900 Royal Presidential Suite. Rs 1,000 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; fitness center; pool; spa. In room: AC, TV, DVD player, Wi-Fi (complimentary).

WHERE TO DINE

Visitors with a sweet tooth will get a kick out of the local specialty, Mysore pak (mysurpa), made from gram flour and liters of ghee (clarified butter). You’ll find a number of outlets at Devaraja Market. The best place to try is at Bombay Tiffany’s ( 0821/2427-511); the famous and long-established Guru Sweet Mart (Sayaji Rao Rd.) or any of the Nandini milk stalls—all equally good. Hotel Dasaprakash’s canteenlike restaurant Akshaya (Gandhi Sq.; 0821/244-2444) serves simple, hygienic vegetarian fare, typical of the region, and a sumptuous thali that costs just Rs 55!

Le Olive

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