India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [327]
Karadigodu Post, Siddapur, Coorg 571253. 08274/258-481 or -482. Fax 08274/258-485. www.orangecounty.in. 59 units. $258 County Cottages; $306 Presidential Villa; $428 Pool Villa; $476 King’s Court (4-person suite); $53 extra bed. Rates include all meals and taxes. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; coffee lounge; badminton; boating; cycling; doctor-on-call; fishing; gymnasium; health spa; library; 2 outdoor pools; room service; spice tour; transfer (Rs 6,250 from Bengaluru, Rs 2,250 from Mysore). In room: A/C, TV.
Rainforest Retreat When a microbiologist and botanist got together and decided to experiment with organic farming and biological pest-control, little did they realize how interested the rest of the world would be. Anurag and Sujata, soon compelled to make a guest room for a regular stream of friends, are today almost always running full, despite having expanded accommodation within their 9 hectares (22 acres). Tents and cottages are scattered amidst banana, orange bamboo and coffee plants (ask for the striking old brook-side deluxe cottage); no-nonsense accommodation is in keeping with the surroundings and ethos of the place. The rustic dining area with stone tables and benches is where simple home-cooked fare is devoured after long walks (guided walks are included in the price) and the evening bonfire, enjoyed with chilled beer (kept in the river on days when the fridge goes bust). With only solar-power for lights and water heated on coal and fire—this is the real green deal.
P.O. Box 101, Coorg 571201. 08272/265-638.www.rainforestours.com. 5 units. 2 Deluxe Cottages with 2 bedrooms each Rs 4,000 (double) Rs 2,000 (single); Plantation cottage with 2 independent rooms Rs 3,000 (double) Rs 1,750 (single); 2 Tents Rs 2,000 (double) Rs 1,500 (single). Rates include all meals, hikes and taxes. MC, V. Open Oct–May. Amenities: Solar heating in all rooms and tents; transfer (Rs 300 from Madikeri Bus stand/Rs 2,500 from Mysore/Rs 5,000 from Bengaluru); hot water. In room: Fireplace in Plantation Cottage.
3 Exploring the Hoysala Heartland
Halebid is 220km (136 miles) W of Bengaluru; Belur is 14km (9 miles) SW of Halebid; Sravanabelagola is 85km (53 miles) SE of Belur.
The Hoysalas were ferocious warriors who, despite regular military campaigns, found time to allow their love for the arts to flourish. What remains of this once-powerful dynasty are their beautiful temples, usually commissioned to commemorate their victories or successful covenants made with their gods. Situated at the edge of the Western Ghats, the temples of the once-powerful cities of Belur and Halebid are often referred to as the “Jewel Boxes” of Hoysala architecture, and are comparable with the religious monuments of Khajuraho (in Madhya Pradesh) and Konark (in Orissa). The artists who created these compact, assiduously sculpted temples demonstrated enormous regard for the rules of proportion, and went to extreme lengths to ensure absolute spatial precision. Exterior temple walls are invariably covered in detailed sculpted decoration, while inside you will discover hand-lathe-turned filigreed pillars and figures with moveable jewelry, also carved from stone. The gods paraded at these temples are over 8 centuries old, yet continue to impress with the vigor with which they carry out their superhuman duties, slaying demons and moving mountains, while celestial maidens admire their reflections in eternally reflecting mirrors.
In quite a different vein, the living pilgrimage center at Sravanabelagola is where you will find the world’s tallest monolithic sculpture. The statue of Gomateswara,