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Temple (free admission; shoe-check Rs 10; sunrise–sunset) is the largest of the Hoysala temples. Hoysalesvara actually consists of two distinct temples resting upon a star-shaped platform, both dedicated to Shiva. It has more complex and detailed carvings than those at Belur. You can discover the 20,000-odd sculptures in and around the temple on your own, or enlist the services of a guide (who will approach you as you arrive at the monument; expect to pay around Rs 200, but do include a tip). You can visit the on-site Archaeological Museum (Rs 2; Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm) to see more stone statues of Hindu gods, gathered from Halebid and its immediate environs. If you want more of the same, without the touristy vibe, head for Kedareshvara Temple, 300m (984 ft.) away and marked by its serene location.

Also in Halebid are several Jain Bastis that allude to the religious tolerance of the Hoysala kings, who extended patronage to other faiths. Although lacking the immense carved decoration of the Hindu monuments, Parswanathasamy Temple (free admission; daily sunrise–sunset) enjoys a lovely lakeside location.

SRAVANABELAGOLA

For members of the peace-loving, nonviolent Jain faith, this is one of the oldest and most important pilgrimage centers, famous for its colossal 18m (59-ft.) statue of Lord Gomateswara, said to be the tallest monolithic statue on earth, and reached by climbing the 635 steps that lead to the hill’s summit. Naked and imposing, the statue is a symbolic representation of worldly renunciation.

Commissioned in A.D. 981, the Statue of Gomateswara is a representation of Bahubali. Son of the first Jain Tirthankara Adinatha, Bahubali renounced his kingdom and sought enlightenment by standing naked and motionless for an entire year while contemplating the meaning of life. Seen in detail on the legs of the statue, the creepers and plants twisting their way up his body are symbolic of his motionless mission of spiritual discovery. A special celebration (Mahamastakabhisheka, or the Great Annointing) is held here every 12 years, when the giant monolith is bathed with bucketfuls of milk and honey. The next ceremony takes place in 2018.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

Accommodations close to the temples are limited and hardly the stuff of kings. You’ll find a number of government-run hotels in both Belur and Halebid; these have restaurants of questionable quality and extremely basic rooms. In Halebid, the tourism department’s Hotel Mayura Shanthala (Temple Rd.; 08177/27-3224; doubles Rs 260) is within striking distance of a number of temples, but you get what you pay for (very little). Equally so at Belur’s Hotel Mayura Velapuri ( 08177/222-209; doubles Rs 432), located just outside the temple entrance. Better to opt for Hotel Southern Star Hassan ( 08172/22-51816 or -51817; www.ushalexushotels.com; doubles from Rs 3,000), which offers pleasant service (including sightseeing advice) and safe dining. It’s certainly not luxury level, but guest rooms are comfortable and clean. Views from odd-numbered rooms are of a less built-up part of the town.

The Gateway Hotel, Chikmagalur Located just outside the small coffee-growing town of Chikmagalur, this hillside retreat—originally built as a government rest house—is comfortable and idyllically remote, with sloping red-tile roofs echoing the style of the local colonial Malnad plantation homes. Reserve one of the cottages; these have high-pitched ceilings, polished floors, two double beds, and large balconies with scenic views. (Reserve no. 119 for an especially large balcony.) The attached bathrooms are spacious but have showers only. Visits to nearby coffee plantations set off Monday to Saturday at 3:30pm. You can also kick back and allow yourself to be stroked into good health at the Ayurvedic massage center.

K.M. Rd., opposite Pavitravana Jyothinagar Post, Chikmagalur 577 102. 08262/22-0202 or -0404. Fax 08262/22-0222. www.tajhotels.com. 29 units. Rs 5,700 standard garden view double; Rs 5,900 superior pool-view double; Rs 6,600 cottage mountain view. Rs 900 extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: