India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [332]
Hampi Bazaar is a broad, dusty boulevard lined with stalls and restaurants. It leads to the entrance of Virupaksha Temple , which predates the Vijayanagara kingdom yet remains a center of living Hindu faith (even though Hindu idols have been removed from the surrounding temples). Virupaksha’s towering goparum is lavishly sculpted and rises several stories; within its courtyards, monkeys and children careen around ancient pillars, while a sad-faced temple elephant takes tips for much-rehearsed blessings granted with her trunk. In the far right corner of the complex, tucked within a chamber, look for the shadow of the main goparum, which falls—miraculously, it would seem—as an inverted image on the temple wall, created by light passing through a small window. South of Virupaksha Temple is a temple housing a massive Shiva lingam (phallic symbol) standing in a pool of water. Carved from a single rock, the lingam is adjacent to a fantastic monolithic statue of Narasimha , the man-lion avatar of Vishnu. Although partially damaged, the one-piece carving dating to the early 16th century is one of the finest sculptures at Hampi.
Some distance from the bazaar, on a high elevation, is the spectacular Vitthala Temple , dedicated to an incarnation of Vishnu, and one of the most fabulous and famous of Hampi’s monuments. One of Hinduism’s most enduring images, an ornate stone chariot , is found here. With solid stone wheels that can turn on their axles, the chariot faces a shaded dance hall where ancient musical dramas were once played out and from where you can now enjoy panoramic views of Vijayanagara. The pillars of the temple are commonly referred to as “musical pillars,” each one producing a different note when tapped.
Nearby, the King’s Balance was once a scalelike instrument used to measure out grain or even gold against the weight of the king. The weighed item was then given to the priests (or to the poor, depending on your guide’s story).
The royal enclosure incorporates the ruined palaces where the Vijayanagara kings would have lived and held court. Not much survives, but you can still visit Hazara Rama Temple, where the royals went to worship, a small stepped tank, and Mahanavami Dibba, a platform where performances and entertainments were held. On the outskirts of the royal complex, you need to buy a ticket to see the zenana enclosure, where the two-story Indo-Saracenic pavilion known as Kamala (Lotus) Mahal features massive pillars, delicately punctuated arches, and fine stucco ornamentation; its unusual design blends elements of Muslim and Hindu architecture. Within the same enclosure are quarters believed to have been used by Hampi’s Amazonian female guards, described by several Portuguese travelers. Just outside the enclosure are the superb domed Elephant Stables .
13km (8 miles) east of Hospet, Belary District. Guides can be hired through the government tourist office in Hampi Bazaar for Rs 300 half-day and Rs 500 full day. Entrance to Virupaksha Temple Rs 2; 6am–12:30pm and 2–8pm. Entrance to both Lotus Mahal and Elephant Stables Rs 220; 8am–6pm. The Hampi Festival takes place Nov 3–5.
WHERE TO STAY
You may come across signposts sporting the name Kishkinda Heritage Resort—it is anything but “heritage” and extremely full in high season with children, thanks to the amusement and water park attached to it. However, Kishkinda Trust ( 08533/26-7777;http://thekishkindatrust.org) does do some interesting work—cross over to Anegundi on the other side of the river, where local people both show off their craftwork as well as how they make it—it’s a new initiative, but one well worth supporting. KSTDC’s Hotel Mayura Bhuvaneshwari at Kamalapuram ( 08394/241-574;http://kstdc.net; A/C doubles Rs 1,800) is a much cheaper option (in every sense) to Hampi’s Boulders (but useful in case it’s full). They can also arrange a Hampi tour (Rs 175).
Hampi’s Boulders Set among the enormous natural boulders that define Karnataka’s splendid landscape, this is your best bet in Hampi. Private, remote, and immersed