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truly fascinating collection—particularly the textiles and fine art section, which includes a fine collection of Indian miniature paintings demonstrating the evolution of styles and the differences between Rajput, Deccan, Pahari, and Mughal paintings, though the displays are somewhat disorganized. One of the most valuable pieces must be a 9th-century edition of the Koran, written in beautiful Kufic script. The weaponry collection includes a diamond-encrusted sword used ceremonially by the Salar Jungs, as well as pieces used by Mughal emperors. There’s something to be said for the sheer profusion of design objects, ranging from boxes studded with precious gems and vessels blown from Indo-Persian glass to a chair made of solid ivory, a gift from Louis XV to Tipu Sultan. In one room, large crowds are drawn to a famous musical clock with a toy watchman who emerges from behind a door every hour in time to beat a melodious gong. Give yourself at least 90 minutes to explore.

C. L. Badari, Malakpet. 040/2452-3211.www.salarjungmuseum.in. Admission Rs 150. Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm, 4:15pm last entry. There is also a separate entrance to view the famed jewels of the Nizams for which the admission is Rs 500, Sat–Thurs 11am–6pm. Cameras not allowed.

Asthmatics Say “Aaah!”

One of the world’s largest alternative medicinal gatherings takes place annually at Nampally Exhibition Grounds in Hyderabad, usually on June 7 or 8. Just as the monsoon sets in and brings with it all sorts of seasonal respiratory illnesses, hundreds of thousands of asthmatics from all over India flock to the city to receive an unusual cure administered orally by the Bathini Goud brothers. A special herbal medicine, prepared by using water from the family well only, is stuffed into the mouth of a 2- or 3-inch murrel (sardine). The fish is then slipped into the patient’s mouth, who swallows the slithering creature alive (the Gouds claim that the wriggling fish increases the efficacy of the medicine because it clears the patient’s throat; for those who are strict vegetarians or particularly squeamish, a banana acts as a substitute, albeit a poor one). The result: For more than 162 years, countless people have reported relief from a variety of respiratory-type disorders. Said to have been given to an ancestor of the present-day Gouds by a Hindu holy man back in 1845, the secret formula has been passed down through the generations and administered free of charge in accordance with the saint’s wishes. Visit www.bathinifish.com for details.

WHERE TO STAY

At press time, exquisite Falaknuma Palace (Tank Bund Rd.), a work of astonishing architectural opulence that has hosted the likes of King George V, was in the process of being converted into a heritage hotel by the Taj hotel group. This is likely to be the best place to stay in Hyderabad when it opens in 2011; visit www.tajhotels.com for ongoing developments. Other than our recommendations below, you could opt for Green Park (Begumpet; 040/2375-7575;www.hotelgreenpark.com; doubles from Rs 6,250), which is very good value for its location and excellent service and facilities—all that’s missing is a pool.

Aalankrita A doctor couple infatuated with antique furniture went on a buying spree almost a decade ago until they found they had no more space to keep their treasured finds, so they bought some land, built one room styled as a typical village house, with antique stairs, frames, and doors—all this multiplied, and today they own a full-blown resort. Lovely antiques, mostly from the Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Rajasthan, are in all the rooms (sadly a dearth of art), and there’s also an Ayurvedic massage center, beautiful gardens, friendly staff, and good cuisine. Accommodation is available as independent cottages (Gruha) as well as rooms in a main block (Devkrupa). Designed to resemble a village, it’s replete with a traditional mandapam, where Indian marriages can take place—if you’d rather not become an inadvertent wedding guest, check before confirming your booking.

20 min. from Secunderabad Club, Shameerpet