India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [343]
If you’re keen to sample more regional Andhra cuisine without forever losing your sense of taste (it is intensely fiery), take a table at Chutney’s ( 040/2335-8484; Shilpa Arcade Rd. no. 3, Banjara Hills) to sample their pesarattu (spiced mung bean flour pancake) eaten with allam pachadi (ginger pickle). Better still, make your way to the first floor and take your pick of a huge variety of vegetarian dishes from North and South India at their reasonably priced all-you-can-eat daily buffet spread (Rs 167). Another value-for-money restaurant is Abhiruchi on S.D. Road (040/2789-6565 or -2227). It has superfast service and excellent food for dirt-cheap prices—along with the thali, order the mutton gongura as a side dish (a spinachlike leaf that grows in Andhra mixed with goat meat).
One of the best buffets in town is at Collage ( 040/4450-8888;www.istahotels.com), the coffee shop at Ista. With its indoor and outdoor options, lavish spread during lunch (only a la carte at night), live-station sushi, kebab and teppanayaki grill, European, Italian, Japanese and Indian fare to choose from, it’s understandably popular—make reservations for the Sunday special brunch which comes with unlimited sparkling wine and beer (Rs 1,100). Another 24-hour dining option is Okra ( 040/2752-2999; http://marriott.com), at the new Hyderabad Marriott—with open kitchens, a relaxed atmosphere located by the pool, candlelit in the evening, Okra can be quite charming.
Finjaan (opposite Mughal Residency Apts., Main Rd. Toli Chowki; 040/2356-1738; www.finjaan.com), was the first teahouse to open in Hyderabad in 2006. At this tiny and simple establishment, brothers Salman and Mohammed Taiyebi are only too happy to educate on all 37 kinds of tea and the health benefits of your particular cuppa.
Watering Holes
Some of the hippest bars have been around for several years and seem to be getting better with age, much like the wine they serve. Touch (Trendest Towers, Rd. no. 2, Banjara Hills; 040/2354-2422; cover Rs 1,000/on Sat; 7pm–midnight) is an absolute knockout, drawing the trendiest crowd and celebs yet keeping the media at bay. 10 Downing Street is even more popular but less self-conscious; it’s a great place even for singles and belts out rock music on most days with karaoke on Thursdays. (My Home Tycoon Bldg., Begumpet; 040/6662-9323; cover Rs 700 on Sat; 11am–11pm). Even if you aren’t bunking at the Taj Krishna, drop in at Ahala ( 040/6666-2323; cover Rs 1,200 per couple on weekends; Wed Ladies Night/Fri Corporate Night; 6pm–midnight)—a gorgeous lounge for a casual and classy evening, although we have seen it getting quite frenetic, in a fun way!
SHOPPING
Pearls are a major draw in Hyderabad—it is said that 9 out of 10 pearls in the world travel through Hyderabad for piercing and stringing—the craftsmanship is unsurpassed here. But do be careful: There are a lot of fakes out there. Kedarnathji Motiwale (near Bata, Pathergatti; 040/2456-6667;www.kedarnathji.com) has been supplying authentic pearls and jewelry since 1908; hardly surprising then that a number of impersonators sporting the same name have cropped up—make sure you’re in the shop with the photograph of the president of India giving an award to the owners. Meena Jewellers (Babukhan Estate; 040/2329-9509;http://meenajewellers.com) is also recommended, particularly if you’re after exotic-looking pieces typical of Indian