to be built, New Delhi took shape between 1911 and 1933. Designed by the British imperialist architects Lutyens and Baker, New Delhi’s major buildings have a simple, almost brutal classicism and are considered the finest artifacts of the British Empire, their sheer scale symbolizing its fascist ideals. But again Delhi was lost to her rulers, and in 1947 India’s first democratically elected prime minister was sworn into power. The bungalows of New Delhi became home to Indian masters. Ever a city of paradoxes, Delhi’s jubilation was tinged with tragedy, for this was also for many the demise of ancient Delhi: With the division (“Partition”) of the subcontinent into India and Pakistan, bloody street battles between Hindu and Muslim broke out, leading to the wide-scale immigration of Delhi’s urbane Muslim population to Pakistan, and to an even bigger, reverse influx of Punjabis from what is now Pakistan. Primarily farmers, but with a reputation for hard work and business acumen, the Punjabi immigrants effectively doubled the population of Delhi and forever changed its image of itself as a birthplace of civilization. As William Dalrymple describes it in City of Djinns, Delhi—“grandest of grand old aristocratic dowagers”—had become “a nouveau-riche heiress: all show and vulgarity and conspicuous consumption.” But if one thing is constant, it is Delhi’s ability to reconstitute itself. Indeed, with fierce development in the adjunct metropolitan areas of Gurgaon and Noida, a rapidly expanding Metro system, and a stringent plan in place to drastically develop the city’s infrastructure ahead of the 2010 Commonwealth Games, there are signs that Delhi’s desire is to become a city of the future, molded along capitalist ideals and increasingly in line with Western expectations for a high-yield international hub. And, with pressure from the Supreme Court, local government has been consistently installing an ever-tightening schedule of laws designed to gentrify and unclog the city of cows, beggars, illegal businesses, and pollution-spewing vehicles. One can only hope that Delhi’s historic heartbeat will not be lost in the process.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION To pick up a free map of Delhi or to get up-to-date information on sights, city tours, and taxi/rickshaw prices, head for the India Tourism Office at 88 Janpath (near Connaught Place; 011/2332-0005 or -0008; www.incredibleindia.org; Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm). You will also find Government of India Tourist offices at both airports (open 24 hr.). Do not confuse these with so-called “government authorized” tourist offices, which are not authorized by anyone and are very adept at fleecing the unsuspecting. You will find these fakes particularly along Janpath and at the New Delhi railway station; make sure you seek assistance only at 88 Janpath or from one of the recommended tour operators (see below). If you intend to travel anywhere during your sojourn in India by train, you may choose to make all your reservations in Delhi (though these are just as easily available in other big cities). You can make bookings at the helpful Indian Railways Counter at the airport or any of the reservation counters in the city. Alternatively, for information, visit the Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation (DTTDC; 18A D.D.A SCO Complex, Defence Colony; 011/2464-7005 or 011/2336-5358; www.delhitourism.nic.in; Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm), or see “Getting There: By Train,” below.
GETTING THERE By Air Most major international airlines operate in what is one of the best-connected cities in south Asia. Delhi has separate domestic and international airports that lie 8km (5 miles) apart; a free hourly shuttle bus runs between them. Tip: During high inflow periods the shuttle times may be increased but bear in mind that, should you merely be in transit ie arriving at international terminal and due to connect with a domestic flight somewhere in India, you will have to factor in enough time to wait for this shuttle bus to transfer you. Alternatively, make sure you have enough time to draw money from an