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By Root 2010 0

on Friday (the day of the week he was assassinated), when devotees gather to sing melancholic bhajans. Nearby, Gandhi Memorial Museum ( 011/2331-1793; Tues–Sun 9:30am–5:30pm) documents his life and last rites, which must have been immensely moving. Also within the old city walls is Feroze Shah Kotla (Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg), the ruins of the palace of the fifth city, Ferozabad. The principal attraction here is the pristine polished sandstone pillar from the 3rd century B.C. that rises from the palace’s crumbling remains. One of many pillars left by the Mauryan emperor Ashoka throughout North India, it was moved from the Punjab and erected here in 1356. North of Red Fort is St. James Church (Lothian Rd. near Kashmiri Gate; daily 8am–noon and 2–5pm). Consecrated in 1836, Delhi’s oldest church was built by Col. James Skinner—the son of a Scotsman and his Rajput wife, who became one of Delhi’s most flamboyant 19th-century characters—to repay a promise made during battle. (Note: For good tours within the old city, we recommend Tallis & Company—see “Guided Tours” earlier.)

Jama Masjid Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1656, this mosque took 5,000 laborers 6 years to complete and is still the largest in Asia, accommodating up to 25,000 worshipers during holy festivals such as Id. Sadly, non-Muslims are not allowed in during prayers, but photographs (sold elsewhere) of the thousands of supplicant worshipers provide some idea of the atmosphere as you wander the huge expanse within. The central pool is for washing hands, face, and feet; to the west (facing Mecca) is the main prayer hall with the traditional mihrab for the prayer leader. You can ascend to the top of the southern minaret to enjoy fantastic views from Old Delhi to the distinctly different rooftops and high-rises of New Delhi—the climb is pretty stiff, but worth it. Note: If your knees or shoulders are bare, you’ll have to rent a scarf or lungi (sarong or cloth) at the entrance to cover up.

Off Netaji Subhash Marg. Free admission; Rs 50 for minaret rooftop viewing; Rs 150 camera or video. Daily 8:30am–12:15pm and 1:45pm to half-hour before sunset; opens at 7am in summer. Closed during prayers 12:15–1:45pm. Shoes to be removed outside.

Lal Qila (Red Fort) Built by Shah Jahan, the most prolific architect and builder of the Mughal empire, Lal Qila must have been a very modern departure from labyrinthine Agra Fort (which is older but a great deal better preserved and atmospheric). It was the seat of Mughal power from 1639 to 1857. Named after the red sandstone used in its construction, Red Fort covers an area of almost 2km (1 1⁄4 miles). Visitors enter via three-story Lahore Gate, one of six impressive gateways. You’ll pass through Chatta Chowk, which has quaint shops selling cheap souvenirs (some rather nice handbags). You’ll arrive at Naqqar Khana, where the emperor’s musicians used to play. From here you look up into Diwan-I-Am, the 60-pillared “hall of public audience,” from where Emperor Shah Jahan used to listen to his subjects’ queries and complaints as he sat cross-legged upon the beautifully carved throne (an age-old custom that his despotic son, Aurangzeb, who cared little for his subjects, discontinued). Behind this lie Rang Mahal, the royal quarters of the wives and mistresses, and Mumtaz Mahal, probably used by a favored wife or by Princess Jahanara, who evoked such envy in her sister’s heart (see “Agra” introduction, later in this chapter). Next up are Khas Mahal, which housed the emperor’s personal quarters (he would greet his subjects across the Yamuna River from the balcony); gilded Diwan-I-Khas, where the emperor would hold court with his inner circle from the famous jewel-encrusted Peacock Throne (taken by Persian invader Nadir Shah in 1739 and still in Iran); and finally the Hamams, or royal baths, whose fountains of rose-scented water would give modern-day spas a run for their money. In front of the hamams is Moti Masjid, built by Aurangzeb exclusively for his own use—a far cry from the huge Jama Masjid his father built in order to celebrate the faith