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was inspired by it. Though the Taj’s beauty (and the money spent) eclipsed this magnificent example of the garden tomb, it’s well worth a visit, even if your next step is to visit its progeny. Paid for by Humayun’s “senior” wife, Haji Begum, and designed by the Persian (Iranian) architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas, it’s another grand testimony to love. Set in peaceful surrounds, the tomb features an artful combination of red sandstone and white marble, which plays with the wonderful symmetry and scale used by the makers of the Mughal empire. Though it doesn’t have the fine detailing of the Taj, aspects such as the intricately carved stone trellis windows are lovely. If you’re traveling on to Agra, it is interesting to see how the Mughals’ prolonged stay in India started to influence design elements (the Persian finial that mounts the central marble dome was, for instance, later supplanted by the lotus). There are a number of outlying tombs, and if you want to do more than simply wander through the beautifully restored gardens and walkways and marvel at the sheer generosity of scale, this is again one place where the services of a guide are worthwhile. Hire one through your hotel or the central tourism office.

Lodi and Mathura Rd. 011/2435-5275. Rs 250; Rs 25 video. Daily sunrise–sunset.

The National Museum Okay, so this museum boasts 150,000 pieces covering some 5 millennia, but it is frustratingly hard for the layperson to traverse these hallowed corridors, a number of which have displays with little or no information; best by far is to hire the audio tour available at the entrance. There are some gems here, like the 12th-century statue of the cosmic dance of Lord Shiva (South Indian bronzes), which is almost as archetypal of India as the Taj; and a truly wonderful collection of miniature paintings—this is one area where you could easily spend a few hours. And if you have any interest in history, the sheer antiquity of many of the pieces will amaze you—here lies the country’s finest collection of Indus Valley relics (ca. 2700 B.C.), as well as those garnered from central Asia’s “Silk Route” but given that it’s not artfully displayed, with no attempt to make history come alive, it takes time and some effort to appreciate the wealth of history that lies throughout the 30-odd galleries spread over three floors.

Corner of Janpath and Rajpath. 011/2301-9272. Entry Rs 300 (inclusive of audio-tour charges); camera fee Rs 300. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.

New Delhi’s Imperial Architecture Nehru wrote that “New Delhi is the visible symbol of British power, with all its ostentation and wasteful extravagance,” but no one with any design interest fails to be impressed by the sheer scale and beauty of these buildings and the subtle blending of Indian influence on an otherwise stripped-down Western classicism—a far cry from the ornate Indo-Saracenic style so deplored by chief architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. Lutyens, known for his racist views, in fact despised all Indian architecture (he conveniently convinced himself that the Taj was actually the work of an Italian designer), but he was forced to include some “native” elements in his designs. Clearly, at first glance the Lutyens buildings of Central Delhi are symbols of imperial power intended to utterly dwarf and humble the individual, yet the Indian influences, such as the neo-Buddhist dome, tiny helmetlike chattris (cenotaphs), and filigree stonework, add a great deal to their stately beauty. Once the home of the viceroy of India, Rashtrapati Bhavan is today the official residence of the president of India and is closed to the public (though the Mughal Gardens, spread over 5.2 magnificent hectares [13 acres] and among the best in India, are open to the public Feb 14–Mar 14). It’s worth noting that this is the largest residence of any president on earth, with over 350 rooms (the White House has a mere 132). Do take note of the slender 44m (145 ft.) Jaipur Column near the entrance gates; donated by the Maharaja of Jaipur, it is topped by a bronze lotus and six-pointed glass star. The two Secretariat