India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [360]
If you’ve traveled this far south, head a little east to look at the Bahá’i House of Worship, or “Lotus Temple,” where 27 huge and beautiful marble “petals” create the lotus-shaped dome. Often likened to a miniversion of the Sydney Opera House, it’s a beautiful contemporary temple, and invites people of all faiths for worship. It’s sometimes described as a modern counterpoint to the Taj, but this is an injustice to the Taj, as the Lotus Temple lacks any detailing and has a drab interior (Kalkaji; 011/2644-4029; Apr–Oct Tues–Sun 9am–7pm, Nov–Mar Tues–Sun 9:30am–5:30pm).
Qutb Complex Originally built by Qutbuddin Aibak, first of the Delhi Sultanates who were to rule for some 4 centuries, the complex surrounds Qutb Minar, the sandstone Victory Tower that he started in 1193. The Minar was added to by his successor, Iltutmish (whose tomb lies in one corner); and the topmost stories, reaching 70m (230 ft.), were built in 1368 by Feroze Shah Tughlag. It is remarkably well preserved, and photographs don’t really do the tower justice—not in scale, nor in the detail of its carving. The surrounding buildings show some of the earliest Islamic construction techniques used in India, as well as the first mingling of Islamic and Hindu decorative styles—Koranic texts are inscribed in the Minar and Alai Darwaza (old gateway), while Hindu motifs embellish the pillars of Quwwat-ul-Islam (“Might of Islam”) mosque. The iron pillar in the courtyard, which remains amazingly rust-free, dates from the 4th century.
Aurobindo Marg, near Mehrauli. 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) south of Connaught Place. Rs 250; Rs 25 video. Daily sunrise–sunset.
Delhi’s Spiritual Disneyland
Already a landmark, Delhi’s youngest attraction is the modern-era pilgrimage center Akshardham (Noida, 011/2201-6688;www.akshardham.com). This temple and cultural complex rises from the banks of the Yamuna River in east Delhi, surrounded by landscaped lawns and an air of civility. Supposedly, visitors come here to worship—largely in the main temple, splendid in white marble and pink sandstone, and borne on the shoulders of 149 life-size stone elephants. At a cost of $50 million, the modern architectural landmark took 5 years to complete, involving the efforts of some 11,000 artisans and craftsmen who toiled for an estimated 300 million worker hours to create the ornate pillars and domes, thousands of sculpted idols, and a 3.3m (11-ft.) gold-plated version of Swaminarayan. The whole effect is one of spiritual decadence with, in a tribute to Disney-style theme parks, visitors able to take a boat ride through key moments of Indian cultural and religious history. One can only speculate at the significance of the attached shopping complex and IMAX theater. Akshardam is open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 6pm; temple entry is free, but there’s a fee (Rs 125) for exhibitions and to see the ecclesiastical feature film on the life of Lord Satyanarayan.
WHERE TO STAY
The capital draws countless diplomats and businesspeople, which in turn has led to a thriving (and ridiculously pricey) five-star accommodations sector, meaning that you’ll probably need to dig a little deeper in your pockets if you want a certain level of luxury—not a bad idea if this is your first stop in India. Although a five-star hotel may serve as a gentle introduction to India, most are bland reproductions of what you can expect anywhere in the world, and some are downright hideous despite the hefty price tags. While big luxury hotels are more numerous than we need to mention, there are a few very special options for travelers looking for affordability, style, and something out of the ordinary—we’ve reviewed them below, but here’s a brief overview of our favorites. In the budget category, we’ve long acknowledged the pleasure of staying at Master Guest House, the best place by far to stay if you’re watching your rupees and would like to live among charming Delhiites. Costing a little more,