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’s best (and most expensive) city hotel. You come here not just for the sensuous luxury, but for its array of personalized services—airport pickups in a souped-up silver Ambassador; tours in reconditioned auto-rickshaws (with air-conditioning and stereos); fabulous day-long wedding rituals, and escorted train journeys to see the Taj Mahal. The exterior looks not unlike a neat Soviet-era administration block, but move inside to a cool-slick palace, inspired by Delhi’s classic Mughal architecture. The biggest drawback is that you might not want to leave your room—elegantly stripped down and very pampering, with wall-to-ceiling windows framing views of Humayun’s Tomb. In terms of size, accommodations put the rest of the city to shame, each with a private pool and shaded terrace from where you can watch hawks skillfully harassing pigeons. Spend the better part of a day luxuriating in the city’s best spa; or book a session in the salon (and discover why staff all looks like a hair model).

Lodhi Rd., New Delhi 110 003. 800/532-333 in the U.S., or 011/4363-3333. Fax 011/4363-3335. www.amanresorts.com. amannewdelhi@amanresorts.com. 39 units, 28 apt.-style “Lodhi” suites. High season (Oct–Apr) $750 Aman Room double, $1,400 Aman Suite, $1,250–$1,650 Lodhi Suite, $1,450–$2,400 Lodhi Pool Suite. May–Sept: $550 Aman Room double, $1,200 Aman Suite. Lodhi Suites and Lodhi Pool Suites, with 1, 2, or 3 bedrooms, priced from $1,250. Rates include airport or train station transfers. 10% service charge and taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; library-lounge; cigar lounge; bar; airport transfers (free); highly specialized city tours; health club and spa (w/Ayurvedic, sports, Russian, and Thai treatments, and traditional Turkish hammams); Pilates studio; pool (outdoor, heated); room service; 3 squash courts; 3 tennis courts; yoga. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, butler service, hair dryer, minibar (free), music system, MP3 docking station, plunge pool, Wi-Fi (free).

The Imperial This gracious establishment (built in 1931) is the best large hotel in Delhi—certainly for anyone wanting something more atmospheric than any chain, no matter how luxurious, can offer. Only at The Imperial can you recover from your jet lag in the elegance of colonial-era Delhi—without even setting foot out of the lobby. It’s also incredibly convenient (only a short stroll to Connaught Place) yet tranquil, and has one of the deepest, largest pools in Delhi. Spacious guest rooms (no need for a suite; opt for an Imperial or Heritage Room) with wonderfully high ceilings are furnished in colonial-era elegance. However, it is the public areas, like the double-volume colonnaded veranda and grand 1911 bar, that are a sheer delight—huge, elegant, and everywhere a showcase of Delhi’s imperial past. A huge collection of original art adorns every corridor (a veritable museum of 18th- and 19th-c. art, which you can explore with the resident curator). Silver-service breakfasts are among the best in the world, and Spice Route one of our favorite restaurants.

1 Janpath, New Delhi 110 001. 011/2334-1234 or 011/4150-1234. Fax 011/2334-2255. www.theimperialindia.com. luxury@theimperialindia.com. 231 units. Rs 22,500 Imperial double; Rs 27,500 Heritage double; Rs 32,000–Rs 2,00,000 suite; Rs 6,000 (above 12), Rs 3,000 (below 12) extra bed. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; pastry shop; airport transfer (Rs 2,600); art gallery babysitting; concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; fitness center; heated pool; room service; valet. In room: A/C, TV, butler service (luxury suites only), DVD player (all except Imperial Rooms), fax machine (on request), hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 300/hr., Rs 1,200/day).

The Oberoi If you like being treated with the reverence of a celebrity, this is the place to stay—genuflecting staff is trained to make you feel like royalty, and every room comes with a butler; a typical characteristic of all the Oberoi hotels. Service aside, the hotel’s location—east of the Lodi Gardens (near Humayun’s Tomb) and surrounded by the green oasis of