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models and high-powered execs swishing by. Despite wonderful service and every amenity you could wish for, guest rooms are unexceptional, designed more for efficiency and all-around comfort than to keep you staring at the walls (or boxed in the little bathrooms). No matter: After a day’s sightseeing, head for the pool, where you can watch as raptors cut their way through a darkening sky, or chill out in the spa before heading to Rick’s, one of Delhi’s best bars. (Note: With doubles starting from Rs 8,500 it may be the slightly cheaper option, but don’t get bumped down to the Taj Palace Hotel, which attracts see-and-be-seen weddings, gigantic corporate functions, and other high-end social functions that impact negatively on service; the location in the Diplomatic Enclave is also a drawback.)

Number One Mansingh Rd., New Delhi 110 011. 011/2302-6162. Fax 011/2302-6070. www.tajhotels.com. mahal.delhi@tajhotels.com. 294 units. Rs 11,500 superior rooms; Rs 18,500 deluxe double; Rs 20,500 Taj Luxury; Rs 23,000 Taj Club double; Rs 40,000–Rs 250,000 suite. Taj Club and Suites include one-way airport transfer, breakfast, valet, wine, chocolates, and cocktail hour. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 7 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 2,481); babysitting; concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; DVD and CD library; health club, spa and gym; Internet (Rs 400/hr.); pool; 24-hr. room service; yoga. In room: A/C, TV, fax machine (all except superior), minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 600/day).

Moderate

Ahuja Residency Situated adjacent to a park in Golf Links, one of the most expensive residential areas in Delhi, this family-run hotel offers reasonable comfort, a peaceful retreat from the city, and well-meaning service. The owners maintain standards and upgrade facilities regularly, so if you prefer a more intimate lodging experience and can’t quite afford to stay at Amarya (or, more likely, can’t get a reservation there) than Ahuja and Shanti are the next options you need to enquire into. Try to reserve no. 12, a slightly larger-than-average corner unit, or fork out on no. 11 converted to a suite but costing the same. You may find mattresses a trifle soft, but cool white linens make up for this. Guests tend to make a beeline for the lovely terrace overlooking the park and the neat little lawn out front. There’s a quaint country-style dining room for homey Indian meals. The Ahuja family also offers serviced apartments and has another guesthouse in Defence Colony.

193 Golf Links, New Delhi 110 003. 011/2461-1027. Fax 011/2464-9008. www.ahujaresidency.com. info@ahujaresidency.com. 12 units. Rs 5,738 double. Rates include taxes, breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; airport transfer (Rs 750); doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 50/hr.); limited room service; travel and transport assistance. In room: A/C, TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (complimentary).

Amarya Haveli & Amarya Gardens Finally—exclusive boutique-style lodgings that combine eye-catching style, useful amenities (including round-the-clock chefs), relatively salubrious locations, and reasonable rates. Located in Hauz Khas, Amarya Haveli has six handsome rooms, each inspired by a different region of India and done out in luxurious locally sourced fabrics (owners Alex and Mathieu are in the textile business)—it’s a clever synthesis of traditional and contemporary elements, with a hefty injection of personality. Pricier, but with an even greater sense of exclusivity, Amarya Gardens is a little farther south in a masterfully transformed Defence Colony mansion: Rooms are big and airy, and there’s a cheerful, tree-shaded garden terrace. The signature here is the extensive use of white, accented with bold colors, antiques, and fresh flowers. Sexy and characterful, the Amarya properties are a real find, and rates remain very fair considering their obvious popularity. Besides good looks and luxurious accommodations, the homey-yet-sophisticated atmosphere means that you can really find yourself warming up to what is often experienced as a chaotic, alienating city.

Haveli: P-5 Hauz