India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [375]
Karim Hotel MUGHLAI In the heart of Old Delhi, not far from the Jama Masjid, Old Delhis most famous eatery dates from 1913, when it was opened by a chef who claimed to have hailed from a family of royal cooks who served, among other guests, the great Mughal emperor Akbar. Don’t be put off by the informal setting; the food is very good. It’s primarily a meat-eaters’ hangout, with the real princely treats being the mutton burra kebabs. The butter-cooked chicken (makhani murgh) is also wonderful, as is the badshahi badam pasanda, mutton cooked with blended almonds and yogurt and fragrant spices. If you’re really adventurous, you can also sample exotic fare such as spiced goat feet, or the advance-order bakra feast—lamb stuffed with chicken, rice, eggs, and dried fruit, a meal made for a dozen people (about Rs 5,500). No doubt about it: This is the real deal.
16 Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid. 011/2326-4981 or -9880. www.karimhoteldelhi.com. Main courses Rs 51–Rs 250. No credit cards. Daily 7am–midnight.
Naivedyam SOUTH INDIAN VEGETARIAN Delhi has five branches of this fantastic, cramped, and always busy little South Indian restaurant; the one in Hauz Khas (marked by the Nandi statue facing the front entrance) is the original, atmospherically decorated with mirror-framed Tanjore paintings and pillars that have been beautifully carved and embossed. Start your meal with a spicy peppery lentil soup, called rasam, which is drunk as a curative and is something of an acquired taste. Thalis, or multicourse platters, are served at mealtime, and are a good way to sample a variety of tastes from the south. Alternatively, you can choose from a whole range of dosas (rice and lentil flour pancake; ask the waiter for some advice regarding which to order), always served with chutney (made from ground coconut and green chilies, sometimes with mint), and sambar, a souplike concoction of lentils, tamarind, and vegetables. Tea and coffee are served in the style typical of the south; no alcohol is served.
1 Hauz Khas Village. 011/2696-0426. Main courses Rs 60–Rs 200; thali Rs 125. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.
Saucy Fingers
One of our absolute favorite eating experiences in Delhi has got to be Khan Chacha Kabab Corner ( 98-1067-1103; Mon–Sat noon–10pm, Sun 4–10pm), a hole-in-the-wall kebab counter in Khan Market serving legendary mutton seekh kababs, wrapped in light roomali rotis (Rs 55), from a tiny kitchen manned by a squadron of brothers who’ve continued what their father started back in 1972. These delicious, juicy meat-filled rolls are prepared while you wait and served as a take-away snack; you can hang around and munch them on the spot, or smuggle a batch into your hotel room and sit down to a feast. Be warned: They’re utterly addictive. Ask for onions and green chutney if you’d like to add a spicy edge, and be prepared for a deliciously decadent sauce to dribble down your chin. To get there, seek out the crowd of devotees that inevitably forms (at 75 Middle Lane); it’s right next to The Kitchen, a pretentious and anonymous neon-lit cafe.
SHOPPING
The Delhi shopping experience is every bit as exciting as that found in Mumbai and Jaipur, but the sprawling size of the city makes it difficult to cover all in one day—best to concentrate on one area at a time. If this is your first port of call, try not to load your luggage too early with stuff to take home; best to arrange for it to be shipped directly—ask your hotel to help you arrange this. There are literally hundreds of courier companies in the city;