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Fancying itself Delhi’s most exclusive pub is Dublin (ITC Maurya; 011/2611-2233; www.welcomgroup.com), although with its Irish theme, we can’t imagine why. It does have a dance floor, however, as well as the largest selection of single malts in Delhi; on Friday and Saturday regular DJs spin popular commercial tracks—a mix of fast-paced rhythms from hip-hop to ’90s rock and even London bhangra. For a more genteel and upmarket atmosphere, head to Rick’s at the Taj Mahal Hotel (1 Mansingh Rd.; 011/2302-6162), where you can sip some of the best cocktails in Delhi while watching the city’s fashionable set unwind. A DJ (Wed–Sat) plays retro music from 10:30pm onwards. Far more formal, and perhaps a tad demure, is Club Bar (The Oberoi, Dr. Zakir Hussain Marg; 011/2436-3030); relaxed and spacious, and good for cigar smokers, it’s the sort of place where you’ll overhear patrons discussing the latest business deals. 1911 Bar in The Imperial ( 011/2334-1234), with its horseshoe-shaped bar, quilted leather Montana chairs, vintage portraits, and stained-glass roof, is an elegant place to enjoy an evening drink; despite the TV stuck on sports channels, it attracts a discriminating clientele that includes expats, celebs, and political bigwigs. All the rage among the jet-set crowd is Aura , the sublime vodka bar at the Claridges ( 011/4133-5133); schmoozing on the black leather armchairs here is greatly enhanced by the 72 varieties of vodka on offer.

Beyond the hotels, another popular watering hole and lounge is Q’Ba (E 42-43, Inner Circle, Connaught Place; 011/5151-2888; www.qba.co.in). It features a funky island bar on the lower level and dining upstairs—a good place to hang out with travel companions and swap stories; there are two terraces from which to admire the mayhem down below. After 8:30pm the DJ plays commercial music. Nearby is sister outfit, another restaurant-cum-bar, called @Live (K-12 Connaught Place, Outer Circle; 011/4356-0008), which dishes out—you guessed it—live music. Our old favorite Turquoise Cottage (first floor, Regent Sq., DLF City, Phase-II, Gurgaon; 0124/280-4070), may have shifted to Gurgaon, a satellite town closer to the airport but people still head out here because they loved the TC when it was in Delhi and it’s still a great place for rock music. Thankfully you no longer walk into a haze of nicotine smoke (due to the national smoking ban that came into effect in 2008) and the decor is pleasant, with candlelit tables. If you prefer a venue that looks and feels a bit more local (we’re talking Khajuraho-inspired erotic sculptures and wall-mounted Harappan seals), head to South Delhi’s Urban Pind (N-4, N Block Market, Greater Kailash I; 011/395656; www.urbanpind.com); you can sip Masala Martinis or cocktails infused with Indian spices while tapping your feet to commercial tracks spun by resident DJ Praveen. The crowd is as eclectic as the decor; although it’s a rather sedate eatery by day, there’s dance floor action at night. Another decent option for a night of unwinding is Baci Bar (23 Sundar Nagar Market; midway btw. Central and South Delhi; 011/4150-7445), which is also an authentic Italian restaurant and joining the ranks is the new Ikko resto-bar/lounge (6/48, Malcha Marg, Chanakyapuri, east of Khan Market; 98-1109-4448), which draws in those craving the “real stuff”—Russian vodka and vintage wines to go along with South Asian cuisine served with impeccable sophistication—you’ll be sure to find the Delhi diplomat circle buzzing merrily.

NIGHTCLUBS Delhi has its fair share of nightclubs, though most play standard commercial music. Because stand-alone bars and clubs are required by law to close at midnight, you’ll find most of the late night carousing at hotels, or alternatively, witness the major after-hours exodus to Noida and Gurgaon (suburbs which are actually in different states), especially on weekends.

There’s no getting around the megalithic popularity of ultrachic and trendy Agni ( 011/2374-3000).