India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [391]
Earliest accounts of the city go back 8,000 years, and “the city of learning and burning,” as it is affectionately referred to, has attracted pilgrims from time immemorial, not all of them Hindu—even Buddha visited here in 500 B.C. after he achieved enlightenment, sharing his wisdom at nearby Sarnath. Successive raids by Muslim invaders (the last of whom was the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb) led to the destruction of many of the original Hindu temples, which means that most of the buildings here date back no further than the 18th century. Yet the sense of ancient history is almost palpable. Getting lost in the impossibly cramped labyrinth, you are crowded by pilgrims purchasing flowers for puja (offering or prayer), grieving relatives bearing corpses, chanting priests sounding gongs, and sacred cows rooting in the rubbish—an experience you will never forget.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION The India Tourism Office is located at 15B The Mall, Cantonment ( 0542/250-1784; Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–2pm). A satellite information counter is open during flight arrivals. The U. P. Tourist Office is on Parade Kothi ( 0542/220-6638; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm); a satellite counter is at the railway station (daily 9am–7pm).
GETTING THERE By Road Unless you have a lot of time on your hands, driving to Varanasi means spending too much time on a bumpy road with no interesting stops.
By Air The airport is 23km (14 miles) from the Cantonment (Cantt.) area, where the large chain hotels are located, and 30km (19 miles) from the riverfront. The flight from Delhi lasts 75 minutes. Best to fly in with Jet Airways (reservations 0542/262-2026, or airport 0542/262-2795 through -2797), who offer the most reliable and regular flights here, or—for the best-priced deal—with SpiceJet (www.spicejet.com), which at press time offered flights from Delhi for just over Rs 2,000 (check out their website or www.yatra.com for best deals from other destinations). A taxi should run you Rs 450 to the Cantonment, and Rs 500 to Assi Ghat; use the prepaid service and try to inspect the vehicle before jumping in. Ignore all attempts by drivers to get you to stay at hotels they recommend (or “own”).
By Train Varanasi is conveniently reached by overnight train from Delhi; the Swatantrata Express and Shiv Ganga Express take 12 to 13. Avoid the smelly and non-air-conditioned second class sleeper; the 2-tiered Second AC is generally the most comfortable but if you want to save pennies then even the 3-tiered Third AC should work. It is also connected with a host of other cities and towns. For information, call 1331; for Varanasi Cantonment reservations, call 0542/220-3475 or 0542/243-1740. Prepaid taxis are available from the station. Be sure to disembark at Varanasi Cantonment station.
Getting Around By Auto-Rickshaw & Cycle-Rickshaw The narrow and extremely crowded streets of the Old City and in and around Godaulia (also Gowdalia) are penetrable only by two-wheelers and very determined cycle-rickshaws. These are also useful—if sometimes bone-jarring—ways of getting from your hotel to the area near the ghats and other attractions. Once at (or near) the ghats, set off on foot. Note that cycle-rickshaws are notorious for not having functioning brakes; their technique of stopping is to merely roll into the cycle-rickshaw in front; hold on and try not to be alarmed, although you must know that they’re very uncomfortable, and tend to have you constantly sliding forward. To tour the environs you’ll need to hire a car and driver; expect to pay at least Rs 800 for a half-day or Rs 1,500 for a full day.
Getting the Better of Transport Tricksters
Remember that Varanasi is a city of transport tricksters, and you have little chance of escaping at least one rickshaw-related con job. Ask your hotel what the current going rate is for any trip in either an auto- or a cycle-rickshaw, and bargain for