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sensual and ultimately to sublime in a spiritual sense, in effect symbolizing man’s walk towards the divine. Another interpretation is that the images are “manifestations of tantric practices,” which is why these temples were known as Yogini temples, where images of exotic sexual positions possessed the power to ward off the evil eye. Yet another theory—this one considered total hokum by those in the know, and best discarded (along with the guide who might pander it) with contempt—suggests that the erotica served to educate young men who as boys lived in hermitages, obeying the Hindu law of being “brahmacharis” until they attained manhood when studying the sculptures—and the earthly passions they depicted—prepared them for the worldly role of husband.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AWAY By Air It’s most convenient to fly in on your way to or from Varanasi (a mere 35-min. hop), on Jet Airways’ or Kingfisher. You can then continue on to Delhi or Mumbai, or Varanasi, the following day. Note that you should stay 2 nights if you really want to explore the temples thoroughly or visit the nearby Panna National Park. Daily Jet Airways flights leave Delhi at 10:40am and take off from Varanasi at 12:20pm, arriving in Khajuraho by 1pm. During the high season (winter), these are usually pretty full of package tour groups, so you’ll need to book well in advance; by April, however, the planes are quite empty. Khajuraho’s airport is 3km (2 miles) from the town center; taxis operate according to very strict fixed rates.

By Train & Road Khajuraho finally has its very own railway station: Catch the UP Sampark Kranti which departs from Delhi (Nizamuddin) at 12:35pm and reaches Khajuraho the next day at 7:50am (only Tues, Fri, and Sun; make sure to book a 3 AC coach or you’ll be delinked at an earlier station). On any other day, if you’re traveling by train from Delhi or Chennai, you will disembark at Jhansi (175km/109 miles from Khajuraho). From New Delhi, catch the Bhopal Shatabdi, which leaves the capital’s Nizamuddin Station at 6:15am and pulls in at Jhansi at 11:03am. From here, MPSRTC runs a bus service from Jhansi to Khajuraho, scheduled to meet the train from Delhi (around Rs 105—not recommended as the buses are in terrible condition), or you can catch a taxi (Rs 3,000) to Khajuraho (4 hr.). You can also rent a car and driver for a few days if you have plans to see more of the region—note that Orchha (20km/12 miles from Jhansi) is definitely worth a stop en route to Khajuraho (Orchha is discussed later in the chapter); try to spend the night if you have time. If you’re traveling by train from Mumbai, Kolkata, or Varanasi, you will arrive at Satna, which is 117km (73 miles) or 3 hours from town. Note that it is possible to rent a vehicle and driver for the arduous overland journey onwards from Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh (discussed later); this should set you back a maximum of Rs 6,000 for a car with A/C, during peak season.

Note: We cannot overemphasize the appalling state of the roads in Madhya Pradesh. Avoid lengthy road trips, ensure sufficient stops, and don’t travel at night. If you must, rent the services of a sturdy 4WD and driver, and check that your vehicle has at least one spare wheel. We highly recommend Grey Hornbill ( 94-2530-4970; greyhornbilltours@yahoo.co.in) for travel in this region.

VISITOR INFORMATION M. P. Tourism ( 07686/27-4051; khajuraho@mptourism.com; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, closed Sun and second and third Sat of the month) is in the Chandela Cultural Centre, Khajuraho. The more helpful India Tourism office ( 07686/27-2347; Mon–Fri 9:30am–6pm) is located opposite the Western Group of Temples. Note that the state tourism website, www.mptourism.com, as well as the unrelated www.khajuraho-temples.com, are both decent sources of information.

GETTING AROUND By Taxi, Auto-Rickshaw & Cycle-Rickshaw You will be flooded with offers to take you from Khajuraho’s airport to your accommodations; in return, touts and drivers expect you to use their services for the duration of your stay, and will even continue to lurk outside your