India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [407]
The unexceptional Chaturbhuj Temple, 3km (2 miles) south of Duladeo, sees very little traffic but has a remarkable sculpture of Vishnu and is a peaceful place at the best of times, not least at sunset. Nearby excavations continue to unearth new temple complexes, as Khajuraho keeps revealing more hidden gems.
AN EXCURSION TO PANNA NATIONAL PARK
A mere 27km (17 miles) from Khajuraho, Panna covers 542 sq. km (211 sq. miles) of dry deciduous forests, fed by the Ken River—jungles of teak, Indian ebony, and flame-of-the-forest trees alternate with wide-open grassy plains in what were once the hunting grounds of several royal families. Tragically, Panna has lost all its tigers (barring a recent introduction of a female tigress), but this is a good place to visit for birds and smaller animals including jungle cats (similar to the serval, it is distinguished by its long legs and uniform coat color, which ranges from sandy yellow to reddish brown) and beautiful nilguy (blue-bulls). With the lack of tigers, chances of spotting a leopard increase (as there is less competition for prey), but this really is matter of luck. Adjacent to the park is the ancient town of Panna, home to the largest diamond mines in Asia.
27km (17 miles) from Khajuraho. 07732/25-2135. Bookings through Forest Department, located at the park entrance. Park fees: Rs 2,180 admission (includes vehicle entry and up to 4 persons); Rs 100 guide; still and video camera (free); Rs 600 per person tiger viewing on elephant back. Park open Oct 16–June 30, 6:30–10:30am and 3–5:30pm
WHERE TO STAY
If you’re simply overnighting and here to see the temples, it’s best to stay in the village, from where you can walk to the majority of temples—the Lalit Temple View is your best bet here. If you want to combine the temples with a safari, take a look at our recommended lodgings in Panna National Park, located approximately 45 minutes’ drive from the temples; of these, Ken River Lodge is still a great option, offering a more adventurous, earthy experience but for the ultimate in safari chic, opt for the fabulous Pashan Garh: Panna’s newest safari lodge is managed by the Taj and safari specialists &Beyond, the same team responsible for the exquisite Mahua Kothi and Banjaar Tola (see Bandhavgarh and Kanha accommodations, later in this chapter). Note: Still under discussion is the proposed creation of Khajuraho’s first heritage accommodations, at the hitherto deserted 19th-century Rajgarh Palace. Situated some 25km (16 miles) from the village, at the foot of the Manijagarh Hills, this beautiful palace has exceptional views, and the end result is likely to be spectacular. You can get updated information about developments from the local tourism bureau.
In Khajuraho
During winter, groups of tourists pass fast and furious through this dusty and otherwise non-descript little town, and hotels (some with almost 100 rooms) fill up quickly, so it’s a good idea to plan ahead. A few self-billed “luxury” options are situated along Khajuraho’s main road; if they’re not included below, it’s because they really aren’t worth it. A large strip of hotels and guesthouses is dedicated to backpackers; rooms vary considerably. Economy-minded travelers should head for Hotel Surya (Jain Temple Rd.; 07686/27-4145; www.hotelsuryakhajuraho.com), the best budget hotel in town: Rs 750 to Rs 1,200 buys you a clean, spartan deluxe room with a fan, attached drench shower, and a balcony, from where you can watch early risers practice yoga in the garden. A bit more expensive are the “executive” rooms, distinguished by their relative newness and their considerable size. Surya has a decent dining facility and bikes for hire, and guests can take cooking classes.
Hotel Chandela Located 1km (1⁄2 mile) from Khajuraho’s main temple complex, on the main road into town, this reliable low-rise Taj chain hotel has peaceful gardens, comfortable accommodations, and staff that is willing to oblige. It won’t win any