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By Root 1907 0

and certainly transformed us into avid birders. Accommodations are in 10 cottages or in 10 mud-walled huts; unless you’re with children, choose the latter. They have straw roofs, fireplaces, separate dressing areas, and big, simple attached bathrooms with occasional wildlife lurking in corners. Good food and a bar on a raised wooden platform contribute to the resort’s appeal. Romantic dinners can be arranged on a tiny private island in the middle of the river or you could sit up at the machan at night and wait with bated breath. (Note that Ken can arrange a fabulous night safari nearby where you will have good chances of seeing not just plenty of wildlife, but animals at their calmest.)

Village Madla, District Panna 488 001. 07732/27-5235. In Delhi contact Manav Khanduja ( 98102-53436). www.kenriverlodge.com. wildlifer@vsnl.net. 20 units (with showers). Rs 12,500 jungle plan double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfer (Rs 700); boating; doctor-on-call; fishing; jeep safaris with naturalist; night safari. In room: Fans, water coolers (some units), no phone.

Pashan Garh Although we would still rate Ken higher for the wildlife experience it offers, Pashan Garh is where you come if you want to really pamper yourself (and won’t get a chance to visit any of the other Taj &Beyond safari ventures). Spread through 80 hectares (200 acres) of forested land, cottages of stone and brick resembling local architectural styles are exquisitely private (30m/98 ft. apart); inside the decor breathes luxury. A raised platform acts as a divan with a fireplace surrounded by large glass windows overlooking the jungle while a gazebo outside with a khujuraho motif running along its sides is perfect for an after-safari massage. Have a sun-downer on the common veranda before moving to the dining hall—a single long chunky wooden table—great if there are plenty of guests around it, but not so cozy when less busy. The pool offers a cool respite to sultry afternoons and you can also explore the woods on the property itself instead of doing an evening safari—note that it takes almost an hour to get to the gates of Panna national park, which means getting up at an unearthly 4:30am or leaving in blistering heat at 2:30pm.

Panna National Park, Amanganj Rd, District Panna 488 001. Info 94-2542-0801. Reservations: 866/969-1825 in the U.S. and Canada; or 1800-111-825 or 022/6601-1825 in India. www.tajsafaris.com. tajsafaris@tajhotels.com. 12 units. Rs 32,000 per person per night. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Dining room; bar; butler; doctor-on-call; library; outdoor pool; jeep safaris w/naturalists. In room: A/C, flashlight, hair dryer.

WHERE TO DINE

If you’re down with a case of culinary homesickness, you may find some comfort in the fact that Khajuraho is awash with eateries offering “multicuisine” menus; in fact, the term seems to be a favorite among staff in most of the top hotels. Unfortunately, the hotels are where you’ll find the best dining options. These are headed up by the Temple Café at the Radisson, and Panna, the multicuisine eatery at The Lalit Temple View (an altogether easier, and cheaper, option for lunch). If you don’t mind something a little more down home, sample the Italian fare offered at Mediterraneo (Jain Temple Rd., opposite Surya Hotel; 07686/27-2246; no credit cards; daily 7:30am–10:30pm), an alfresco rooftop restaurant with friendly staff and little pretense beyond the gigantic letters along the side of the building exclaiming MEDITERRANEO CHEF TRAINED IN ROME. While this bit of ambitious advertising is something of an exaggeration, Rama, the owner, is from Rome, and he has personally trained all his staff. The menu offers a range of Italian favorites, including wood-fired pizza (when available; Rs 150–Rs 275), pasta, and tasty Roman-style chicken. Don’t expect to be blown away, but you can be sure your meal will be made with fresh ingredients, and there’s real espresso. Another local hangout—conveniently situated across the road from the Western Group entrance—is Raja Café Swiss Restaurant ( 07686/27-2307;