India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [412]
Note: There is no doubt that seeing a tiger in the wilds is one of the most amazing experiences, but the manner in which all the jeeps gun for the poor animal is a little disconcerting. It is obvious that the inevitable “tip” is calling the shots and all ethical conduct generally takes a back seat. If you prefer to experience the park in a sensitive manner, then we advise you to go with Mahua Kothi (see below) or else make it clear to the guide and driver that you don’t wish to partake in behavior that effectively “corners” these magnificent, critically endangered cats.
Park entrance is at Tala. Park fees: Rs 2,180 admission; Rs 1,500 vehicle entry; video and still photography is complimentary; Rs 600 tiger viewing on elephant per person (3–5 min.); Rs 25,000 for 1 person with an additional Rs 10,000 per person up to maximum 3 guests for a 6-hr. elephant ride; last-minute cancellations are allowed. Daily 6:15–10am and 3–6pm.
WHERE TO STAY
Note that rates quoted here are “Jungle Plan” packages, which include all meals and two safaris into the park as well as all entrance, guide, and vehicle fees, and that all are situated within striking distance of the entrance. Besides the thoroughly swish and sexy Mahua Kothi (reviewed below), there are two more options worth considering, and they won’t break the bank in quite the same way. Located on the park’s southern edge, Tree House Hideaway ( 94-2583-8688; www.treehousehideaway.com; Rs 20,000 all-inclusive double) is a unique property with accommodation perched on top of five different kinds of trees. Contrary to what one would expect from a treehouse, the interiors are quite comfortable yet in keeping with the surroundings, although some guests have had a nightmarish time with rats (a problem the management can’t really solve given that one is surrounded by a forest); on the bright side, you may also chance across (as we did) herds of wild boar, literally under your tree, grunting and rummaging in the dark—an authentic and slightly surreal experience for a city slicker. At press time, the owners were waiting to install a CCT camera by the side of a natural waterhole shared with the park boundary, so that guests can view any visiting wildlife while sitting in the lounge area; if only the staff and managers were more enthused and enterprising, this could become one of the best properties in Bandhavgarh.
An older sister property is the King’s Lodge (info 07627/28-0536; reservations 011/2588-5709; www.kingslodge.in), which is also responsible for Ken River Lodge in Panna, near Khajuraho. Accommodations (most of which are raised off the ground on stilts) have large covered porches, mud-effect walls, and sliding doors that open to bedrooms with high A-frame ceilings; floors are stone tiled and there’s plenty of wood, including entire branches and tree trunks used as part of the decor. They’re smart and have working iron fireplaces, air-conditioning, and good, firm mattresses covered with white cotton linens; bathrooms have tubs and showers. The lodge also offers a good range of amenities, including a pool, and there’s a mellow atmosphere enhanced by the breezy layout of the public spaces. Rates start at Rs 15,000 for two people on the Jungle Plan.
Mahua Kothi Although luxury comes at a stiff price, this is easily the best all-round safari experience in Bandhavgarh, and arguably India. A groundbreaking collaboration between India’s Taj luxury hotel chain and Africa’s renowned high-end safari operator &Beyond, Mahua Kothi brought glamour and sex appeal to jungle lodgings as well as a hitherto unknown level of intelligent guiding and tiger tracking. The original homestead has been lavishly furnished and decorated