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By Root 2025 0

the ground like a massive stone-carved alien craft. Around the middle of the 2nd century B.C., a balustrade was erected around the stupa, and the mound was covered in stone by the rulers of the Sunga dynasty. Facing the cardinal directions and contributing to the mystical appearance of the main stupa are the four intricately carved gateways, erected around 25 B.C. under the later Satvahana rulers. These striking entranceways feature finely detailed panels depicting incidents from the life of the Buddha and tales from the Jatakas. Note that at that time, the depiction of the Buddha in human form had not yet emerged, so instead he is depicted symbolically, as a bodhi tree, lotus, wheel, pair of feet, or stupa.

The Sanchi monasteries consist of a central courtyard surrounded by cells that served as the sleeping quarters for the nuns or monks. Of these, the best is Monastery 51, which was first excavated in the 19th century.

WHERE TO STAY & DINE

Overlooking the Bada Talab or the big lake, Noor-Us-Sabah has perhaps the most scenic location in town. Originally a palace constructed in 1920, it is now under the wing of the WelcomHeritage group; rooms are a mixed bag; make sure you ask for a lake-facing view. All basic amenities are offered including a pool; note there is no alcohol served (V.I.P Rd., Koh-Eh-Fiza. 0755/422-3333;www.noorussabahpalace.com; from Rs 4,700 double).

Jehan Numa Palace Built in 1890 as a royal guesthouse, this handsome low-rise white colonial-era building is fronted by attractive lawns with fountains, hedges, and colorful bougainvilleas, and is the best option in Bhopal. The two original heritage suites (ask specifically for either “Bourbon” or “Goddard”) are very swish, with huge bedrooms, poster-beds, Regency furniture, spacious bathrooms with separate tubs and showers, and private patios. “Regal” guest rooms are off verandas around a fountain courtyard; these are large, with French doors and high ceilings. Standard rooms are best avoided, as are the “cottage rooms.” Colored with natural vegetable dyes, the eco-friendly linens are handmade by a local cottage industry, and walls are decorated with local handicrafts. Service is excellent. Facilities include the state’s largest pool and a fitness center offering Ayurvedic massage.

157 Shamla Hill, Bhopal 462 013. 0755/266-1100 through -1105. Fax 0755/266-1720. www.hoteljehanumapalace.com. 98 units. Rs 3,550 cottage double; Rs 4,850 standard double; Rs 5,550 Regal double; Rs 6,850 Imperial double; Rs 9,550 suite; Rs 12,000 Heritage Suite; Rs 1000 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. Taxes and 5% service charge extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; club/pub; garden barbecue; patisserie; airport transfer (Rs 500); concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; minigolf; health club; horseback riding; Internet (Rs 61/hr.); jogging track; children’s playground; outdoor pool; pool table; room service; table tennis; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (complimentary).

9 The Fortress City of Mandu

90km (56 miles) from Indore

Built at a cool height of over 600m (1,968 ft.) on the southwestern edge of the Malwa Plateau, with sweeping views of the Nimar Plains below, Mandu was once the largest fortified city on earth, and playpen to some of central India’s most powerful rulers. Initially christened by the Malwa sultans as the “City of Joy,” the medieval capital inspired its rulers to celebrate the most pleasurable of pastimes—one of Mandu’s most famous palaces was built solely to house some 15,000 concubines, and it is said that the Mughal emperor Humayun was so mesmerized by Mandu’s sanguine beauty that he developed an opium habit during his stay here. Today the exotic ghost city—still one of the most atmospheric destinations in India—draws but a handful of tourists, which makes the excursion here all the more rewarding. It’s just 2 hours away from the industrial hub of Indore, yet Mandu, even more so than Orchha, is rural India at its best: a place of enduring beauty, both natural and man-made, with panoramic views. It