India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [423]
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
While there are basic lodgings in Mandu, we highly recommend a stay at Ahilya Fort (reviewed below), a fantastic destination in itself, situated on the Narmada River in the town of Maheshwar, some 91km (56 miles) from Indore. From either city, the journey to Mandu should take 21⁄2 hours. If you arrive in Indore too late to move on to Mandu or Maheshwar, you’ll easily find a room in one of the city’s standard business hotels; the best of these is Fortune Landmark ( 0731/398-8444; www.fortunehotels.com; from $90 double). The amenities and comforts here match those of any reasonable city hotel, and the surrounding lawns and gardens are lovely. If, however, you’d prefer a more personal experience, see if you can manage to stay at Rashid Kothi (22 Yeshwant Niwas Rd., Indore 452 003; 0731/254-5060; ashanu@hotmail.com), a family home run by Anuradha Dubey and Arshad Rashid. Of the two rooms, one is a garden cottage; furnishings are comfortable and contain thoughtful touches that enhance the homely atmosphere. All meals (strictly vegetarian) are included in the room rate (Rs 5,500 single, Rs 10,000 double without air-conditioning).
If you decide to stay in Mandu itself, be prepared to rough it somewhat. Our first choice among the small selection of spartan lodgings is Hotel Rupmati (Mandu 454 010; 07292/26-3270), a budget charmer with 12 simple rooms (from Rs 1,300 double). Close to the village bazaar on the edge of a cliff, the hotel enjoys great views. Guest rooms are in a long stone building; all are large with whitewashed walls and a thin, rock-hard mattress with white linens and a blanket (most also have A/C and a TV for double the price). The view can be enjoyed from a small private balcony. Attention has been paid to the grounds, which feature a children’s play area, and the cleanliness and tranquillity of the place make up for the budget facilities.
Ahilya Fort A haven of tranquillity, the hassle-free sacred town of Maheshwar is home to one of the loveliest heritage properties in the state. The summer palace of Indore’s Prince Richard Holkar (a whiz in the kitchen with a number of cookbooks to his name), the fort is a labyrinthine 18th-century palace, complete with maintained English flower gardens and evocative battlements of rough-hewn stone. Each guest room is a unique combination of colonial period furniture and personal touches, with smart attention to detail. Choose between a river-facing unit (the “royal” rooms have balconies overlooking the river) or one with a private courtyard, or ask to stay in one of two luxurious tents. Besides visiting Mandu (56km/35 miles away), you can explore the Maheshwar temple just next door or visit the local Holkar-resuscitated handloom center. Have dinner on the river under moonlight, or select a terrace, courtyard, or battlement to be your preferred dining spot; the refined meals are a real highlight.
Maheshwar 451 224. 92-0390-5948.www.ahilyafort.com. info@ahilyafort.com. Reservations in Delhi: 011/4155-1575. Fax 011/4155-1055. 14 units. Rs 10,700 standard and tent double (non-air-conditioned); Rs 13,700 superior double; Rs 15,700 royal double. Rates include all meals, soft drinks, Indian alcoholic beverages, laundry, boating, local sightseeing, and taxes. 2-night minimum stay. 50% discount mid-Apr through mid-Oct. MC, V. Amenities: Various dining areas; airport transfer (Rs 2,500; same price each way to Mandu); babysitting; boat trips; doctor-on-call; guided excursions; picnics; outdoor pool; TV and game room. In room: A/C (royal and superior rooms), air-cooler (standard rooms and tents), hair