India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [425]
1 Planning Your Trip to Rajasthan
Rajasthan
Rajasthan has so much to see, with long travel distances between top sites, that a trip here requires careful planning (particularly if you hire a car and driver, which is the best way to tour the state). The following overview can help you plan your itinerary.
The three biggest cities in Rajasthan, all with airports, are Jaipur, the “Pink City”; Jodhpur, the “Blue City”; and Udaipur, the “White City.” All are worthwhile destinations, not least because they offer easy access to great excursions. The tiny Jaisalmer, or “Golden City,” is the most awkward to reach, and while some find it the highlight of their Rajasthan trip, others feel it isn’t worth the schlep it takes to get there, given the state of its decaying fort and untrammeled development beneath it.
For most, the entry point is the state capital of Jaipur, near the eastern border, which is the third point (the others being nearby Delhi and Agra) of the much-traveled Golden Triangle. Should you choose to start your trip here, you are in fact well positioned to visit some of Rajasthan’s top sites: Only a few hours from the city is Ranthambhore National Park—where you have good chances of spotting a wild tiger––and Bharatpur’s Keoladeo National Park, a must-see for birders (though ultimately missable for most other folk), and literally on the way from Agra. Jaipur is also within driving distance of Shekhawati and its painted towns and is also the start of the beautiful Aravalli’s that are home to some of our favorite specialty boutique hotels.
Other than its proximity to these sites, however, as well as the excellent rail and flight connections to the rest of India, the only good reason to dally in Jaipur itself is to indulge in some retail therapy. Most visitors planning to travel farther by car circle Rajasthan in a counterclockwise direction, starting off in Jaipur and traveling the rather circuitous route west to Jodhpur (with a short sojourn in Pushkar—particularly for younger travelers); then, from Jodhpur, you could make the 51⁄2- to 6-hour drive west to Jaisalmer for a few nights before you return to Jodhpur. An alternative route to Jaisalmer, which means you don’t have to travel both to and from Jodhpur, is to travel from Delhi through the Shekhawati region to Mandawa, known for its painted havelis, and from there on to Jaisalmer, before you travel east again to Jodhpur. (The other alternative is to skip Jaisalmer altogether, and if you’re short on time this is what you should do. From Jodhpur you then travel south to Udaipur lingering en route in the charming lodgings (Mihir Garh and Rawla Narlai) surrounded by the Aravalli Hills and finally, head back north to Jaipur, stopping en route at one of many lovely palace hotels (or at Shahpurah Bagh or Amanbagh) for a most relaxing end to your journey.
For someone with limited time (say, only enough to visit one of Rajasthan’s cities), it’s far better to fly direct to Udaipur—with great lodging options in all price brackets, this is arguably Rajasthan’s most attractive city (though you should check the status of the lakes, which have gone dry for an entire season in recent years, before planning your entire trip around it). From Udaipur you can take a wonderful (but long) day trip to Kumbhalgarh Reserve to take in Ranakpur’s exquisitely carved Jain temples and impressive Kumbhalgarh Fort before overnighting at Devi Garh, one of India’s most stylish hotels or push a little further into the Aravalli countryside and spend a few days at Rawla Narlai,. Alternatively, you can head east from Udaipur pausing at Shaphura Bagh for serious downtime in an otherwise city-based itinerary, via the historic fort of Chittaurgarh, and then move on to Ranthambhore National Park. Or take the short trip directly south to the relatively