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rickshaw should cost Rs 50 to Rs 100 per hour—always discuss the fare upfront before you get into the rickshaw. If you’re in a bind and simply need a taxi right away, call Pink City Taxi ( 0141/511-5100 or 0141/325-5500). More viable, however, is to hire an air-conditioned car and driver for use within the city for approximately 4 hours (40km/25 miles) at Rs 700; 8 hours (80km/50 miles) at Rs 1,200. If your intention is to hire a car and driver to tour Rajasthan at your own pace, contact Kaaljeet Singh of Indoarya at 011/2651-1634; indoarya@vsnl.net, or you can try the government RTDC Transport Unit ( 0141/220-0778). For more information on hiring a car and driver from elsewhere, see chapter 3. If you like to support small local businesses, we suggest you contact Shankar Meena ( 98-2939-6947) of Rama Tours & Travels (Srinath Colony, Near Airport, Sanganer) to arrange a car of really excellent quality at standard rates. Chances are Shankar or his brother Ramavtar will be your driver, and although their English may not be all that great, service is good-natured, and you’ll be doing your bit for local entrepreneurship. You can also contact Hari Ram Choudhary ( 94-1444-2618) for trips in the city or farther afield; he’s been in the business for nearly 25 years and knows his way around. Another good local guide-driver is Jaideep Singh Sumal; call him at 98280-62625 or e-mail him at jaideepsumal@gmail.com.

Guided Tours Official guides, who hang around outside attractions (and charge Rs 100) tend to have their commentary down pat, but their enthusiasm wanes as soon as they’ve been hired and a price has been settled upon; while they often can’t engage in dialogue, they will convince you that the tour is going to last a lot longer than it needs to be. Don’t take chances with these professional amateurs: Hire Jaimini Shastri ( 93-1450-9684; shastri_guide@yahoo.co.in; Rs 600 for the day), one of the most respected guides in Jaipur and well-versed in the city’s history, culture, and arts and crafts. He can give you the best guided tour of Jantar Mantar, speaking at length on astronomy, astrology, and the observatory. Book him well in advance, and—if you are planning to tour the whole state—consider booking him for the entire trip. Alternatively, organize a guide through your hotel, or contact Rajasthan Travel ( 0141/236-5408) or Sita World Travel ( 0141/237-3996 or 0141/510-2020); you will inevitably pay a higher rate if you use a middleman, but the official rate is Rs 600 per day.

Tip: Consider picking up a copy of Dharmendar Kanwar’s Jaipur—10 Easy Walks (Rupa; Rs 295) either from your hotel or from the excellent new Crossword bookstore (First Floor, K. K. Sq., C 11, Prithvi Raj Marg; 0141/237-9400), which will also deliver books to you.

City Layout

The major attractions and best bazaars lie within the walls of the Old City. Just south of the wall lies Mirza Ismail (M.I.) Road—running west to east, this major thoroughfare is where most of the primary retail outlets and a few good restaurants are located, and divides the city between the old (north) and new (south). The Old City is clearly distinguishable by its terra-cotta-colored walls and ramparts, and the new by its modern shops. Station Road, Sansar Chandra Marg, and Bhagwan Das Marg all intersect M.I. Road. Along these you will find all the services you need, from travel agents and money-changers to ATMs, restaurants, and Internet cafes. Farther south (but still within walking distance), diagonally opposite both Ajmeri Gate and New Gate of the Old City, lie Albert Hall and the Museum of Indology.

Festivals

As is the case everywhere in India, Jaipur seems to celebrate something new every month, but the following are worth noting: In February during the Harvest Festival (Basant Panchami) the city celebrates a Kite Festival, when hundreds of colorful kites sail the blue Jaipur sky, especially around the City Palace area; there’s also a competition and display. In March, when Holi celebrants throughout the country splash color on anything that moves, Jaipur celebrates an Elephant