India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [441]
Tip: An interesting and less expensive alternative to the palace (although not nearly as exclusive or characterful), lies 10 minutes away, at Samode Bagh, a large garden established by the royal family, in which 44 comfortable, closely spaced, air-conditioned tents with stone floors and permanent attached bathrooms are pitched. The tent walls feature beautiful Mughal-inspired patterns and are attractively furnished with carpets, standing lamps, and pretty wooden beds and chairs. The Bagh has its own pool and tennis courts, and all in all is an extremely peaceful getaway. The tents are situated a little too close to each other, and the dining tent can be claustrophobic when full—in which case ask about meals served on the spacious lawns.
Samode, Jaipur 303 806. 01423/24-0023. Reservations through Samode Haveli, Ganga Pol, Jaipur 302 992. 0141/263-2407, -2370, or -1068. Fax 0141/263-1397. www.samode.com. 43units (Palace); 44 units (Bagh). Low season (May 1–Sept 30) to high season (Oct 1–Apr 30): Samode Palace Rs 13,000 deluxe double; Rs 16,500 deluxe suite; Rs 30,000 royal suite (includes dinner); Rs 3,200 extra bed. Samode Bagh Rs 7,000 double; Rs 2,250 extra bed. Rates include breakfast; taxes extra during high season. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; Bagh includes badminton, bicycles, table tennis, tennis and volleyball; doctor-on-call; gym; Internet (free); 2 pools; room service; safari—camel and jeep. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.
WHERE TO DINE
All the hotels reviewed above have dining halls or restaurants that usually serve buffets or a la Carte featuring mediocre to good North Indian food and mediocre to inedible international (“Continental”) options. If you’re spending more than 1 night or looking for somewhere local to lunch, check out the following, but our advice is to eat at your hotel as the food in Jaipur is known not to be worth travelling for. Note that you’ll find the largest concentration of restaurants along M.I. Road, which is also the main shopping drag outside the Old City. Two popular choices with tourists here, both close to the very famous Niro’s, are the glass-fronted, air-conditioned, reliable Copper Chimney and on its left is the tandoor Handi. Also on M.I. Road is the famous Dasaprakash ( 0141/237-1313), which serves fresh pomegranate juice with which to enjoy excellent dosas (filled South Indian pancakes). When the heat gets to you, and you still have dozens more shops to visit, you may want to forgo a large lunch and opt for something healthy and light; for this, your prayers have been answered in the form of Anokhi’s organic deli (see “Shopping,” below). With daily specials and great, healthful salads, this is arguably the freshest fare in town.
Widely considered one of Jaipur’s best, Indiana (J2-34, Mahaveer Marg, behind Jai Club; 0141/236-2061 or -2062) is a bit of a tourist trap, owned by a local graduate of Purdue University who harbors considerable fondness for his alma mater and has a keen eye for kitsch (watch how a tacky fountain issues an upward spray from the head of a stone god). Although locals are hardly ever seen here, the Indian fare is reasonable, and prices are only marginally inflated to cover the nightly “complimentary” open-air folk dance show (which can be a lot of fun, although it’s very inauthentic—more like a floor show—and tellingly pitched at a dumbed-down foreign audience). Although service is abysmal, you can watch some of the kitchen action and appreciate the spectacle of naan and roti being prepared before making its way to your table. Although there’s not much serious focus on Rajasthani cuisine, you can feast on thali (multicourse