India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [455]
GETTING THERE You’ll likely be arriving by car which is 37km (23 miles) from Kota arriving by bus. If you’re bussing it, it’s only a short Rs 40 at most to the guesthouses. The better option is rail now that the train stops in Bundi proper (20 minutes after the Kota stop) and is well connected to the rest of the state, including the main Delhi-to-Mumbai line, Jaipur, Sawai Madhopur, and Chittaurgarh. From the station it’s a short Rs 50 rickshaw ride to your hotel. Kota is 130km (81 miles) by road from Sawai Madhopur and 175km (96 miles) from Chittaurgarh, so you can either visit it after you see Ranthambhore and/or Jaipur or combine it with a trip from Udaipur via Chittaurgarh. An A/C taxi to Bundi from Kota will run you Rs 600; a jeep costs Rs 550.
GETTING AROUND You can get around the town on foot with ease. Should you tire, auto-rickshaws traverse the narrow streets. If you book into Haveli Braj Bhushanjee or Bundi Haveli, the proprietors will arrange all your transport at very reasonable prices—yet another reason the hotel is so highly recommended. Expect to pay around Rs 1,200 for an air-conditioned taxi for the day.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Bundi Haveli Hotel This 250-year-old beautifully restored haveli literally opposite Naval Sagar, the town lake (and 3 min. from Haveli Braj Bhushanjee), is owned and managed by Salim and Lulu. Its loving renovation, clean lines, and whitewashed walls with splashes of fine, colorful detail are testament to their eye (and successful other business, Nazim Handicraft, based in Udaipur). Rooms are uncluttered and free of mismatching antiques and ageing bric-a-brac found so common with haveli-style decor. For a beautiful super deluxe room ask for no. 109, which has partial lake and fort views. Room 107 is large and spacious, while 110 and 104 are the Haveli Suites, where Mick Jagger reputedly spent a night. The restaurant serves both typical nonvegetarian and vegetarian dishes and can be taken downstairs in the open air courtyard or on the rooftop terrace accompanied by 360-degree views.
Bundi Haveli Hotel, 107 Balchand Parra, near Naval Sagar, Bundi 323 001. 747/244-6716. Fax 0747/244-6046. www.hotelbundihaveli.com. info@hotelbundihaveli.com. 12 units. Rs 1,000 standard double (no A/C but with fans); Rs 2,000 super deluxe double; Rs 3,000 Haveli Suites. 10% taxes extra only on suites. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, roof dining; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 50/hr.); room service; In room: A/C (nonstandard room), fan, TV.
Haveli Braj Bhushanjee Situated on a narrow lane inside the walled city, just below the palace, this is an authentic and professionally run guesthouse in India, managed by the discreetly proud Braj Bhushanjee brothers (four of whose ancestors were prime ministers of Bundi State in the 19th c.). Many of the walls are covered with exceptional-quality murals (recently repainted by a local expert), and though each room is traditionally decorated, the choice of objects, fabrics, and carpets (all sourced from Bundi and surroundings) shows a great deal of thought and innate flair. Two brand new rooftop suites were being built at time of writing, promising the best views of the Fort and Palace; on top of these will arguably be the best terrace in Bundi, with a 360-degree view. No alcohol is served and meat is definitely not permitted on the premises but the home-cooked meals are of exceptional quality.
Below Fort, opposite Ayurvedic Hospital, Bundi 323 001. 0747/244-2322 or -2509. Fax 0747/244-2142. www.kiplingsbundi.com. 25 units. Rs 750 economy double; Rs 1,500 standard double; Rs 2,850 deluxe double; Rs 5,000 super deluxe double. Taxes extra. MC, V. Amenities: Dining hall; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 50/hr.); room service. In room: A/C, fan, TV, Wi-Fi (Rs 50/hr.).
5 Shekhawati
200km (124 miles) SW of Delhi; 160km (99 miles) NW of Jaipur
Shekhawati, known