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India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [458]

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En Route To or From Delhi,” earlier in this chapter). Situated 31⁄2 hours from Delhi on the far eastern outskirts of Shekhawati, it is one of the best destination hotels in the country.

Castle Mandawa The castle is one of the most authentic heritage properties in Rajasthan: A labyrinthine, well restored former abode of the Maharajah of Mandawa, whose portraits and family pictures adorn the walls. Given the age of the property—it dates from the 16th century—the conversion to modern hotel in the 1970’s has been remarkably sensitive, maintaining much of the original feel of the castle without sacrificing comfort. (Bear in mind that this cannot be said of the most recently added wing, which features boring, uniformly sized rooms with none of the authentic charm of the original castle.) If you have a poor sense of direction, the journey from the veranda bar to your room can be challenging, but really, getting lost and clambering up and down the narrow staircases is half the fun. Rooms vary hugely, but generally you pay for what you get; nos. 303, 304, 308, 313, 314, and 401 are particularly lovely; no. 215 is smaller (standard) but also a good choice.

Mandawa, Jhunjhunu District, Shekhawati 333 704. 0141/237-4112 or -4130 reservations. Fax 0141/237-2084 or 0141/510-6082. www.castlemandawa.com. reservation@castlemandawa.com. 70 units. Rs 4,000 standard double; Rs 6,000 deluxe cottage; Rs 10,000 suite. Breakfast Rs 350, lunch Rs 600, dinner Rs 650. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Various dining areas; bar; badminton; billiard room; cultural performances; doctor-on-call; heritage walk; Internet (Rs 50 30 min., Rs 100 per hour); Ayurvedic massage; pool table; pool; safaris—camel, horse, and jeep; spa; table tennis; vintage car rides. In room: A/C, minibar (suites only).

Desert Resort Mandawa Surrounded by plains of kejri trees punctuated with seasonal crops of millet and corn, and built in the style of a Rajasthani village, this is unquestionably Shekhawati’s most peaceful and luxurious option. Ethnic accommodations consist primarily of circular mud-thatch huts, their organic shapes charmingly decorated with tribal motifs; almost everything in and on each hut has been sourced from the Shekhawati region. Our recommendation is a room by the pool, which has an attached private garden looking out over the fields You’ll be hard-pressed to leave the pool, which is filled with wonderfully soft, fresh spring water every second day from the borehole, is not chlorinated, and is used to irrigate the crops below. As at Castle Mandawa, dinners are tasty buffets using their organic locally grown produce accompanied by entertainment and served under the stars.

Mandawa, Jhunjhunu District, Shekhawati 333 704. Reservations: 0141/237-1194 or -4112. Fax 0141/237-2084 or 0141/510-6082. www.castlemandawa.com. desertresortmandawa@gmail.com. 60 units. Rs 4,000 standard double; Rs 6,000 deluxe cottage; Rs 10,000 suite. Breakfast Rs 350, lunch Rs 600, dinner Rs 650. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; badminton; billiard room; children’s play area; cultural performances; helipad; Internet (Rs 50 30 min., 100/hr.); in-house dairy pool; Ayurvedic massage; safaris—camel, horse, and jeep; table tennis;. In room: A/C, fan, minibar (suites only).

SHOPPING

Outside some havelis, caretakers sell Rajasthani puppets and postcards. You can see artisans and craftspeople at work in their shops in Mandawa, along Sonthaliya Gate and the bazaar. Lac bangles in bright natural colors make pretty gifts (from as little as Rs 15 each); if you find the sizes too small, have a pair custom-made while you wait. Another good buy is the camel-leather Rajasthani shoes (jootis), once a symbol of royalty. The shop at Mandawa’s Desert Resort sells handicrafts in vivid colors, all produced by rural women of the region.


6 Pushkar

288km (179 miles) W of Jaipur

Pushkar

On the eastern edge of the vast Thar Desert, with a beautiful backdrop in the embracing arms of the Aravalli Hills, Pushkar is one of the most sacred—and atmospheric—towns in India. Legend has

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