India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [463]
Pushkar Palace This pretty but dated 400-year-old palace—its thick white walls reflected in the holy waters of the lake—is the best place to stay in Pushkar itself but Green House is the more luxe. The best rooms are the suites below the terrace (nos. 101 and 102)—these are the closest to the lake, with windows that provide serene (or surreal, depending on the time of day) views directly onto it; do bear in mind, however, that such proximity to the lake also means picking up most sounds. In the deluxe category, the corner rooms (nos. 209, 309, and 409), despite being significantly smaller but comfortably furnished, have the best views—you can literally lie in bed and watch the sunsets. Even if you don’t have a room with the best of views (most are set behind the open-air corridors that link the rooms), you can enjoy it all from the terrace, where waiters are on hand to provide the necessary liquid refreshments (be aware that, as elsewhere in Pushkar, no alcohol is allowed). (Pushkar Palace also arranges a Royal Desert Camp during the mela: 351 tents with attached bathrooms and four dining tents).
Tip: The Palace has a sister establishment, the three star Jagat Palace, built on the outskirts of town. The same rates apply for an experience that’s somewhat isolated and disconnected from Pushkar, but with the added incentive of a pool. Many of the public interior spaces are gloomy, the soulless atmosphere clearly designed to deal with large groups of package tourists. That said, it’s probably the most luxurious hotel option if Pushkar Palace and Green House are full, though you’ll need a car or taxi for the 5-minute drive to town; if you want to walk, it’s a 15-minute trek along a dusty main road.
Pushkar 305 022, Rajasthan. 0145/277-2001 or -2402. Fax 0145/277-2226 or -2952. www.hotelpushkarpalace.com. hppalace@datainfosys.net. Pushkar Palace: 48 units. Jagat Palace: 85 units. Rs 3,450 super deluxe double; Rs 1,100 extra bed. Taxes extra. All meals extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (only vegetarian); doctor-on-call; room service; camel/horse safaris. Jagat has 2 restaurants, pool at Jagat Palace only, Ayurvedic massage. In room: A/C, fan, TV, minibar.
WHERE TO DINE
Dining options are plentiful but far from spectacular, catering largely to budget travelers more concerned with imbibing marijuana than partaking of quality cuisine; if you’re staying at Seventh Heaven or Pushkar Palace, you’d be well advised to make full use of their dining facilities. However, if you’re up for a culinary adventure of the backpacking kind, you’ll find numerous strange and unusual places around the lake, many of them proud of their multifarious global cuisines, all fairly Indianized. Do be aware that you won’t find meat, eggs, or alcohol served anywhere near the sacred lake of Pushkar.
Sai Baba Haveli Restaurant is a favorite with young foreign tourists and aging hippies—it serves gratifying baked goods and decent (egg-less) croissants (although their idea of espresso is simply stronger-than-usual coffee). We’re sure most people come here because of the liberal attitude toward smoking intoxicants, which tends to happen in the garden, lorded over by a statue of Sai Baba (“the living god”) himself; on Saturday nights, festivities include a desert gypsy (Kalbeliya) dance program and party. There’s also a rooftop restaurant. Prems Venkatesh, a basic eatery overseen by a Brahmin who cooks his delicious chapatis with vegetables of the day and dal over a wood-burning fire, is widely considered the best in town for cheap Indian food; ask anyone to direct you there, but don’t expect it to be sparkling clean.
Beware: Please take special