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By Root 2014 0

hawker in sight, only the toothless old retainer whose trembling hands hold the keys while he waits for you to drink it all in before he opens another, even more stunning room. Perhaps it is precisely this—viewing such beauty in absolute solitude—that makes the experience so special, but the artworks are considered to be of the very best in Rajasthan. Don’t miss (you’re unlikely to, as long as the old man is around to leer at your reaction) the collection of miniature paintings depicting scenes from the Kama Sutra; locked away behind cupboard doors in the Maharaja’s Suite on the top floor so as not to corrupt his subjects, it’s a veritable A to Z of erotic possibilities, including some near-impossible feats (definitely bring a flashlight).

Although Dungarpur is slightly less than a 2-hour drive from Udaipur, you will surely want to consider combining the tour with a stay at nearby Udai Bilas Palace ( 02964/23-0808 or 93-1465-3967; www.udaibilaspalace.com; 22 units; doubles from Rs 5,100, suites Rs 6,300, grand suites Rs 8,000, Art Deco suite Rs 11,000, Maharawal suite Rs 15,000), which has a magical lakeside setting and offers no hardship except if you choose to row your own boat that is. This, too, is a wonderful experience, particularly if you are looking for some privacy far from the madding crowd, have an interest in the Deco period, relish a sense of nostalgia, or are a keen bird-watcher. Built on the shores of the pretty Gaibsagar Lake, it’s excellent for birders all year-round.

Dungarpur is 120km (75 miles) south of Udaipur (a 2-hr. drive one-way), and 175km (109 miles) from Ahmedabad, Gujarat. Admission: Rs 150

WHERE TO STAY

Sadly, there is always the remote possibility that the fabulous Lake Pichola will succumb to climatic pressure and finally dry up. We strongly urge you to call ahead and check on the status of the lake waters to make an informed lodging choice; we’d hate for you to fork out a load of cash for a special lake-facing room, only to end up staring at a parched lake bed. For instance, without a view you can rule out the Fateh Prakash and Lake Palace and consider instead a room at Udaivilas or the new Fateh Garh, or one of the other more reasonably priced options such as Jagat Niwas, then head off to spend a night at Devi Garh, or stay at Fort Seengh Sagar or Shahpura Bagh en route to Jaipur, or Rawla Narlai en route to Jodphur. Assuming that the lake is full of water, then it is definitely worth booking into a hotel or haveli with a view of the lake, which is magical; accommodations on the eastern shore are best for sunsets, but this is also the best time to be on one of the islands: the Lake Palace itself, or on Jag Mandir.

Aside from the top recommendations below, it may be worth looking into the Trident ( 1600/11-2122 or 0294/243-2200; www.tridenthotels.com). It’s a large, mellow, purpose-built hotel set behind Udaivilas with plenty of amenities and facilities but set some way from the lake among the tranquil Aravalli Hills, about a 25-minute drive from town. Ranging from Rs 10,000 to Rs 14,000 per double (check online for daily rates and deals), this comfortable, reputable option offers relatively good value (pool-facing rooms, which also have views towards the hills, are best) and will suit the less-adventurous traveler, but it’s a bit soulless for our taste, and far from the action. Similarly the new five-star Radisson Plaza Resort and Spa, Udaipur ( 294/305-2600 or 1800/1800-333; fax 294/305-2666; www.radisson.com/udaipur; reservations@radissonplazaudaipur.com), while predictably robust with its service and decor, can also be a bit bland compared to the options below and is also some way from the city and Lake Picola.

Lake Pichola

Lake Palace Hotel Just looking at this much photographed 18th-century island palace is enough to make you want to start planning a trip to India; and it certainly lives up to its promise, from the experience of being ferried there by boat, to being gently serenaded at dusk by the flautist, or being treated like royalty in the beautiful bar. Both standard and