India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [476]
23–25 Lal Ghat, Udaipur 313 001. 0294/242-0133 or -2860. Fax 0294/241-8512. www.jagatniwaspalace.com. mail@jagatniwaspalace.com. 29 units. Rs 1,550 standard double; Rs 2,150 regular deluxe double; Rs 2,550 lake-facing deluxe double; Rs 3,650 super deluxe double; Rs 5,999 suite; Rs 750 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; horseback riding; Internet (Rs 150/hr.); room service; safaris. In room: A/C, TV.
Western Shores of Lake Pichola
A real gem, situated in the nearby countryside on a hilltop alongside the otherworldly Monsoon Palace, the regal Fateh Garh ( 0294/3290228;www.fatehgarh.in; resv@fatehgarh.in) is the place to stay if you want to be far from the crowds of Udaipur, yet close enough (20 min.) to buzz in and out without compromising on understated luxury. A new property (opened Nov 2008), which has already featured in Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List and Worlds Sexiest Pools (May, Aug 2009), it commands sweeping views east towards Lake Pichola. Constructed with found objects and antique architectural pieces and restored on the principle of Vastu (Indian Feng Shui), and owned and managed by the Jitendra Singh Rathore family (of HRH fame), it cuts a symmetrical, almost roman presence into the countryside but is softened by the use of airy verandah’s, local stone and sustainable power. With 48 rooms in total including 10 suites, the ones to go for are the corner suites which are a steal at Rs 20,000 (standard rooms are Rs 14,000, rooms 9 and 10 have their own plunge pool and terrace). If you don’t decide to stay the night then the least you should do is come for a sundowner and a swim in the infinity pool, and linger for dinner at one of the two restaurants.
Amet Haveli Located on the shores of Lake Pichola, with views of Jag Niwas directly opposite, this pretty 350-year-old haveli has enough charm to have found its way into glossy books, but it’s rather basic for anyone wanting lots of amenities. Nevertheless, all accommodations face the lake, and if you book suite no. 16, or 7, a corner unit with a large mattressed jarokha that juts over the water, you’ll have lovely views of the City and Lake palaces, which you can even see from your king-size bed. Freshly whitewashed, with simple furnishings, the room is airy and light, and very good value. Suite no. 8 is almost twice as large—a bright, marble-floored space with antique furnishings—but the views are not nearly as spectacular. The five new upstairs guest rooms are completely modern additions. Despite the standard menu, the Ambrai restaurant has a good reputation for its tandoori dishes, and its lakeside setting makes it an ideal sunset spot under shady mango trees.
Outside Chandpole, Udaipur 313 001. 0294/243-1085 or -4009. Fax 0294/252-2447. regiudr@datainfosys.net. 15 units. Rs 4,000 double; Rs 5,000 suite; Rs 500 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 50/hr.); pool. In room: A/C, fan, TV.
The Leela Palace Kempinski Udaipur The Disneyfication of the pristine heritage landscape of Udaipur continues with the opening (May 2009) of this world-class hotel. Attempting to borrow from both the Taj Lake Palace and the somewhat corporate Oberoi, yet with neither the sense of history or location, it must start as a third choice. That said, once you are resigned to its failed exterior design and step inside, the magic begins to take hold. Rooms are arguably the plushest in Rajasthan in the sense that they are brand-new, with the latest technology, and extremely well thought out; even the standard category rooms have everything you’d expect