India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [478]
Around Udaipur
Reviewed below is the famous Devi Garh, which we feel is slipping somewhat from its revered pedestal but hopefully will soon be back on track. It’s a short distance from Udaipur (26km/16 miles or 45 min.) along a winding, scenic road with fields of corn, sugarcane and mustard seed, and hotel staff will arrange camel or horse safaris, jeep treks, or chauffeured tours of Udaipur, Eklingji, Nagda, Nathdwara, Kumbhalgarh Fort, and Ranakpur. If it doesn’t suit your budget, or if you’d prefer to be within even easier striking distance of the city, you’ll be pleased to learn that the owners of popular Udai Kothi have come up with a marvelous little property just 6km (3 3⁄4 miles) from Lake Pichola. Surrounded by dramatic hilly landscape, Udai Bagh (see Udai Kothi, above; www.udaibagh.com) is a serene country retreat with a big pool and just seven luxury tents; there are plans in the not-too-distant future for an upmarket destination spa with additional rooms (from Rs 8,500 double), to be designed by Nimesh Patel, who had his hand in Udaivilas. The air-conditioned en-suite tents—outfitted with clay tile floors, block-print-fabric ceilings, and metal frame beds (reserve no. 1 if you want a double bed)—have lovely wooden furniture and piles of magazines and books to keep you entertained (there’s also a TV, minibar, Wi-Fi, and room service if reading doesn’t suffice). Bathrooms have big, smart showers, and there’s a little porch with seats out front (it’s not very private, but you won’t be sharing the property with too many people). Udai Bagh is also just Rs 8,500 double, with breakfast. There’s no restaurant, but a butler brings you whatever you want, and there’s a free shuttle service to and from Udaipur—just 10 minutes away.
Devi Garh This is an unparalleled masterpiece in design, marrying the towering exterior of an original 18th-century Rajput palace (which remains totally unchanged) with a re-invented minimalist contemporary interior, in which almost everything, from the bed and sofa bases, sunken bathtubs to ashtrays and vases, is carved out of white marble. Little wonder that it’s become a popular Bollywood and VIP wedding location and reaped numerous international awards. But we were distressed during our last visit to find an overall sense of neglect and arrogance, including small but essential things such as old towels, uncomfortable pillows, insufficient water pressure, a heated pool in the middle of summer, general staff disenchantment, and dated bathrooms—at the price, inexcusable. Designwise the hotel is still stupendous and we hope that management issues will be ironed out to make this highly acclaimed hotel (by, among others, Condé Nast Traveler Gold List and RCA 2009, Vogue, Wallpaper) once again one of our favorites. (Write and let us know if in your experience it does!)
Devi Garh, Delwara Village 313 001. 02953/28-9211. In Delhi: 011/2335-4554 or 011/2375-5540. www.deviresorts.com. devigarh@deviresorts.com. 49 units. Low season (Apr–Sept)/high season (Oct–Mar): Rs 37,000/Rs 45,000 garden suite; Rs 57,000/Rs 73,000 palace suite; Rs 77,000/Rs 93,000 Aravalli suite; Rs 117,000/Rs 133,000 Devi Garh suite; Rs 2,000 extra bed. Taxes extra; certain ultra-peak-season supplements apply. AE, DC, MC, V. Meals extra: Breakfast Rs 650/725, lunch Rs 1,300/1,500, and dinner Rs 1,500/1,700. Special venue meals extra lunch Rs 1,000, dinner Rs 2,000. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; astrologer; babysitting; cycling; doctor-on-call; health club/gym; horse/camel riding; Internet free; kite flying; library; pool; pool table; room service; spa; table tennis; tennis court; village walks. In room: A/C, TV, DVD/CD, minibar, free Wi-Fi.
WHERE TO DINE
When it comes to Udaipur’s fine-dining experiences, don’t miss an evening at the Lake Palace Hotel, where you can watch beautiful young Rajasthani Banjari women twirl to a hypnotic drumbeat (while behind them are sublime views of the City Palace turning pink). This waterside dance routine is usually followed by a more elaborate